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November 16, 2009blown in insulationQUESTION: I am having my attic insulated through a state program that will save me a lot of money. The contractors use blown in insulation, I believe made from recycled paper that may have ink on it. My concern is that when further work is done in the attic such as installing a ridge vent or removing mold, that the cellulose will be disturbed and tracked into the living space. It seems that any time a person went into the attic that they would track or spill some of the cellulose.
I am not sure if this is healthy insulation to have in the attic. it will be sitting on top of the existing traditional fiberglass insulation. I am also not sure how risky it would be if a bit of the dust tracked or trickled into the living space.
Does any one have experience with blown in insulation?
What are the risks, if any?
Lucy POSTED BY LUCY HEMMENDINGER :: MASSACHUSETTS USA :: 11:59 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
I know there are some readers out there who know more about insulation than I do. So I'll leave this answer to them.
Readers? Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: 0 COMMENTS :: POST YOUR COMMENT
November 06, 2009Replacing Fiberglass insulation in an unfinished atticQUESTION: Dear Debra,
I have read your recommended safe solutions for insulation in "Home Safe Home". I have also searched the Q&A section.
However, it is not clear to me if the advice givens covers unfinished attics.
We currently have blown fiberglass insulation on the floor of the attic. It has been there at least 20 years.
On the wall adjoining of the attic that adjoins a room, there is fiberglass batting with a layer of plastic over it. There is no drywall covering the fiberglass on that wall.
There is no insulation on the sloping roof portion of the attic.
How can we safely and cost effectively remediate?
What is a suitable replacement insulation for an unfinished (open cavity) attic?
While we do not go into the attic on a daily basis, we may go in there once a month or so, and it also adjoins a room that will be used daily by a MCS person.
POSTED BY GIGI :: VIRGINIA USA :: 6:21 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
I'm not an expert on installing insulation, but I know some of my readers are.
So, readers, what are your recommendations? Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
October 16, 2009Formaldehyde-Free Fiberglass Insulation QUESTION: We are considering using formaldehyde-free fiberglass insulation in our new home, and have three questions:
Would you consider the acrylic binders used to be a problem?
Anything else to look out for (presumably batts without paper or plastic covers would be best)?
Can anyone recommend specific brands?
I have often heard Miraflex by Owens Corning recommended, but they stopped producing the product several years ago.
Johns Mansfield has a few products: www.jm.com/insulation/building_insulation/4483.htm
Thanks!! POSTED BY HOPE FOX :: NEW YORK USA :: 12:22 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
I've been recommending the Johns Mansfield because it's easy to get at Home Depot. I haven't personally used it.
Readers? Your experience? Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
October 13, 2009composite deckingQUESTION: Hello,
We are looking to replace our wooden decking outside, wanting to get into 'composite' low/no maintence decking.
This is mainly 'plastics'. Is anyone familiar with 're-usable' decking products that will not harm the environment or us?
Thank you.
POSTED BY DT :: MASSACHUSETTS USA :: 4:30 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
I actually like composite decking because it's usually made of recycled plastics (instead of sending them to a landfill) and because they are outdoors, the small amount of outgassing is more diluted than if it is indoors. And it will last much longer than wood. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
October 09, 2009Window Pane Repair- best materials for MCSers?QUESTION: What are the best materials to use to repair a cracked rectangular bathroom window pane? and the wood frame around the sill?
POSTED BY JULIE TAI :: CALIFORNIA USA :: 5:39 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
Readers? Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: 0 COMMENTS :: POST YOUR COMMENT
September 28, 2009Expanding insulating foam for window installationQUESTION: Hello Debra,
In a few weeks I will be installing some new windows in my home. The contractor has recommenced using expanding foam around the windows to seal openings that would let air infiltrate into the house. The product he wants to use is "Great Stuff: Window and Door".
This product does not appear to be a wise choice for someone with chemical sensitivities. The MSDS sheet says it may cause allergic respiratory reactions, pulmonary edema and central nervous system depression.
Do you know of an alternative non toxic product for filling cavities around newly installed windows?
Thank you for your wonderfully helpful website!
POSTED BY EMILY :: MASSACHUSETTS USA :: 10:26 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
I have no experience with this. Readers?
10/2/09
As I've been reading all the comments, I realized that when I said I have no experience with this, I was referring to the expanding insulating foam. But I DO have lots of experience with installing windows.
I went and asked my husband about this because I didn't remember that he had ever used it. He said he doesn't use it. He just BUILDS TIGHT and then caulks it. We've never had any problems with the windows he has installed.
The funny thing was, he's been installing a window this week...We so don't use expanding foam that I didn't even make the connection... Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
September 11, 2009Non-Toxic CaulkQUESTION: Has anyone used ChemLink products? They make an interesting non-toxic caulk "NovaLink", as well as a construction adhesive "Mean Green". Any experiences? What do you think, Debra? www.chemlinkinc.com
Thanks POSTED BY GREYSON :: TEXAS USA :: 11:39 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
The two products you mention have low toxicity, according to their MSDS sheets. I think they would at least be less toxic than other products of their type. I haven't used either one.
Please read the MSDS sheets for the products offered by this company. A quick spot-check showed not all of their products are less toxic. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
September 09, 2009Fire caulkQUESTION: Hi Debra,
I was wondering if you know of the least toxic "fire caulk" available. I am not sure but I believe fire caulk is used to seal spaces as a barrier to smoke of any kind. I live in an apartment complex and have started to smell cigarette and marijuana smoke in our unit. The building assures us that each individual unit is self-contained and fire proof, but we are not smoking so it must be coming in from another unit. I mostly smell it in my air conditioner closet with pipes that run up and down, so I think that space around the pipes may be where the air is coming from. The building said they would seal it up with fire caulk but I don't want to try to get rid of one toxin by adding another, especially because we have a newborn in our home. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thank you.
POSTED BY HEG :: FLORIDA USA :: 2:41 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
Readers? Any suggestions? Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
August 17, 2009Exterior wood preservativeQUESTION: Hi Debra,
Can you recommend an "MCS-safer" exterior wood preservative?
We are building an above-ground cabin (6-8 inches above ground). Instead of using pressure treated wood, we plan to use untreated Hemlock lumber. (We are finding Hemlock less smelly and less reactive than Pine). But we need something to preserve the exterior Hemlock, specifically for the joists and the underside of the cabin. We know we can use Vermont Natural Coatings for the interior wood, as you suggested that in another post of yours. But what can we use for an exterior wood preservative?
We are thinking of using LIFE TIME WOOD TREATMENT product, found here:
www.valhalco.com/index.htm
Have you heard of it or do you have any other suggestions? This is from their website:
"LifeTime Wood Treatment is made up of naturally occurring plant and mineral substances, combined in a special, 60 year old recipe handed down through generations of a family of craftsmen. A safe chemical free product. LifeTime contains absolutely no solvents. Wood treated with LifeTime is completely harmless to all living things."
Thanks,
R POSTED BY RR :: MASSACHUSETTS USA :: 12:08 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
This sounds like a very interesting product indeed. I have no experience with it, but would like to know more.
Readers, have any of you used this?
Why don't you get some and do a test before buying enough for the whole house. And let us know what it's like. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
August 11, 2009repairing grout in the showerQUESTION: The grout around the tile in the shower is cracking and in need of repair. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what to use? I can actually block off that bathroom for a few days and run a heater and fan if necessary. Thanks for any input. POSTED BY VTACANARY :: CALIFORNIA USA :: 9:00 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
You can use any standard grout. Grout itself is not toxic, it's the grout sealer that's the problem. For that, use the grout sealer made by AFM Enterprises. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
July 29, 2009DriCore SubflooringQUESTION: Hi Debra,
We're planning on covering our basement concrete floor with DriCore subflooring. We will seal the floor with an AFM/Safecoat urethane after installation. The subfloor will become the floor, as it will not be carpeted or tiled. The DriCore MSDS, link here www.dricore.com/en/pdf/msds.pdf, says it has has phenol formaldehyde resin in the core. I talked with the manufacturer, (www.DRIcore.com and phone 1-866-976-6374) who said the panels are sealed with a water-based acrylic sealant. I will have my husband do all cutting outside, to decrease any chemical dust in the basement.
My question...will the formaledhyde offgas? From the MSDS information do you see any potential problems?
This is the only option that I found that will work for the present situation with our basement floor, whioh has very old red concrete stain that "runs" when it gets wet and leaves a powdery dust on shoe soles. We haven't been able to get it washed off in the 24 years we've lived here. Half the floor is also covered with old lineoleum tile squares over the red stain. I don't know if there is asbestos in the tiles. The other half was painted over the stain, and the paint is now wearing off. The DriCore representative said Dricore can be installed over the top of the present floor as is....that's a huge selling point for us. I want to be as sure as possible that I won't have problems before making this costly purchase.
Thanks for all the work you do to help us improve our health, Debra. POSTED BY PATRICIA :: WISCONSIN USA :: 5:52 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
I can't give you a definitive answer without seeing the product, but in general, the idea seems like a good solution for basements.
I was talking with a client on the phone a few weeks ago about needing to put a subfloor in her basement, and the contractor was going to build a subfloor much like this, with plywood and a sheet of polyethylene. This product came up as a possibility, which is an easier way to accomplish the same thing.
The hazards noted on the MSDS are exposure to wood dust and formaldehyde. I'm not concerned about the wood dust because that would not be a problem except during installation. The formaldehyde levels given are below the accepted levels for industrial exposures and which cause cancer. However, if you are very sensitive, and you are covering a large space, they could be too much for you.
These panels do have a finish on them, however, not all finishes block formaldehyde.
Before you invest in this, check with AFM to make sure that the product of their you are using will effectively block any formaldehyde. And I would suggest that you get one of the panels and live with it before you have them installed in your basement.
If you were going to put another flooring on top, this would be less of an issue. You could always put down a sheet of foil that would block the formaldehyde completely, and then lay another floor on top of that. Or, if you laid a ceramic tile floor on top of this subfloor, that would block the formaldehyde completely as well.
Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: 0 COMMENTS :: POST YOUR COMMENT
July 22, 2009Gym Floor RefinishingQUESTION: I live in Boulder, CO and the local recreation centers keep using the most toxic gym floor refinishing product. I would love to propose an alternative for them to use and wonder if anyone has any suggestions.
POSTED BY JILL :: COLORADO USA :: 9:39 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
Readers? Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: 0 COMMENTS :: POST YOUR COMMENT
June 22, 2009Insulated Concrete Forms - ok for MCS? Other wall material options?QUESTION: My husband and I are researching Insulated Concrete Forms for our soon-to-be constructed 'safe house'. Do any of you with MCS have a specific brand of ICF that you can recommend (or not!)?
We are interested in using ICFs for our walls (we have no basement in the design) - we live in upstate NY so we need a well insulated wall system.
I have read endless debates on green building websites regarding the safety of polystyrene used in many ICFs, as well as the blowing agent used to expand the styrene beads, and the flame retardants that are often added. I want to get beyond the theoreticals and hear directly from people with MCS. My husband is gung-ho and ready to use IFC's.... I am worried about the safety, but can't find anything to recommend that would be better. We live in a very eco-conscious town, and lots of folks have used Ecoblock brand and Rastra, and contractors know how to install them.
We briefly considered AAC (aerated autoclaved concrete) but it does not really have enough R-value to be of much use in this climate, and the nearest distributor appears to be in Georgia and no one uses it around here.
There is an Air Krete installer in our town, but I wasn't sure what to use on the interior/exterior cladding and for framing that would be nontoxic, not smelly, and be combatible with the Air Krete.
We expect some level of offgassing to take place despite our best offorts, and are planning to install an HRV/HVAC system.
Thanks so much!!'
POSTED BY HOPE FOX :: NEW YORK USA :: 6:54 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
Readers? Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
Durisol - MCS friendly building material?QUESTION: Greetings,
I have moderate MCS and am designing and building a small 'safe house' for our family, in the hopes that with less of a toxic load, my health won't get any worse - and will hopefully improve!
Do any of you who are chemically sensitive live in, or safely spent time in, homes that are built with Durisol blocks? I have found some info about Durisol on various green building sites, but no specific testimonials or claims about their safety for chemically sensitive folks. For those of you who aren't familiar with this product, here is more info:
www.durisolbuild.com
Durisol is a cement block with 'mineralized' woodchips added for insulation (the wood is supposedly all new untreated softwood leftover from manufacturing). The resulting product is supposedly completely inert, nontoxic, won't rot, is impervious to insects, durable, etc. You can apply stucco and plaster directly to it.
Sounds good if it's true. Should I trust the following claim, that this mysterious process results in no chemical residue?
"Mineralization is the proprietary process by which we remove the sugars from the wood and render the material completely inert, and no longer susceptible to rot or termite damage. The wood then becomes an inorganic aggregate similar to stone aggregate in concrete. Durisol is also known as “wood-concrete”. It is the mineralization process that allows the cement to hydrate or “strengthen” in the presence of wood particles.
The mineralization process is an interim process only and all Durisol products, once made, are comprised of cement and wood fiber only. There are no residual chemical properties whatsoever from the wood processing."
We have looked into other, less expensive, brands of ICF's and I am very concerned about the polystyrene in many of them, and the flame retardants. We would need to use the optional rock-wool inserts with the Durisol blocks to achieve a decent R-value for our climate (upstate NY). Would you use the Durisol and rockwool combination, or something else entirely? If we wanted to be paranoid, we could also put foil-backed sheetrock on the interior, although it is tempting to just use a natural plaster finish.
Many thanks!!
POSTED BY HOPE FOX :: NEW YORK USA :: 6:51 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
The description sounds fine to me, but I have no personal experience with it. Readers?
I'd go with the plaster finish. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
June 17, 2009bathroom sealantQUESTION: I am stil looking for a sealent to use in the bathtub around the drain. My old one wore out and plumber's putty is way to toxic. I've been told to look for a product called Dow Corning 732 multipurpose silicon sealent with no biocides. But I can't find it in a store. Does anybody know about this stuff? Or something else that would work? POSTED BY PAT :: TEXAS USA :: 7:11 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
Readers? Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
June 10, 2009new california formaldehyde regsQUESTION: Hi,
I was wondering what you thought of California 93120 compliant for formaldehyde, phase 1?
www.arb.ca.gov/regact/2007/compwood07/fro-final.pdf
I just purchased a small wood shelf that I thought was solid but apparently it is not but it did have a small sticker on it stating the above (even though I am in CO). POSTED BY JEN :: COLORADO USA :: 2:28 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
I didn't read all 59 pages, but it appears to be a phase-out program. Compliance with these regulations does not mean NO formaldehyde, nor even safe levels of formaldehyde. It looks to be a gradual decrease of formaldehyde in certain wood products from now through 2012. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: 0 COMMENTS :: POST YOUR COMMENT
June 09, 2009Bathroom FlooringQUESTION: I have a 10 year old house built on a concrete slab that has developed mold around the base of the toilet under the white vinyl. While it might be overkill, I'm having it safely removed and the floor cleaned before putting down new flooring. What are the safest, non-toxic (no VOCs), environmentally friendly flooring options for a bathroom? Can you also recommend the safest adhesives, etc. that are needed for those options? Thanks. BL POSTED BY BL :: FLORIDA USA :: 10:23 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
I would use good old ceramic tile. Any glazed ceramic tile will do (that is, one with a shiny or matte surface, not a porous tile like Mexican pavers).
Lay cement backerboard first, then mortar, then the tile, then grout. Use the grout sealer from AFM Enterprises, as it is completely nontoxic.
Ceramic tile is nontoxic, waterproof, and durable. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
Plastic Backsplash PanelsQUESTION: Hello,
Before I started trying to make my house green, my husband purchased some thermoplastic backsplash (here's a link to it. Mine is a different color/pattern, but the make-up is the same: www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100521698) for our kitchen. We never got around to putting it up, so it has been outgassing in my basement for about 10 months.
I am trying to find out if this is a toxic material before I bother putting it up now that we have some time. I can't seem to find anything definitive, although many sites label thermoplastic as "low toxicity" and "non-toxic." Do you know?
Thanks very much for your time.
Sincerely,
Melissa POSTED BY MELISSA :: MARYLAND USA :: 8:59 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
I've seen these at Home Depot and didn't think they had much of an odor. And if your have been sitting outgassing for 10 months, they are probably fine.
I would suggest bringing them up to the kitchen and letting them sit there for a few days before installing. See if you notice any odor or don't feel well.
If at all possible, I would go ahead and use them. The alternative would be for them to sit in a landfill.
Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: 0 COMMENTS :: POST YOUR COMMENT
June 02, 2009Flooring adhesivesQUESTION: Have you ever heard of HealthyBond-MS Flooring Adhesive by EcoTimber? We are going to be putting down bamboo flooring on concrete and are looking at adhesives. I know you personally have used Titebond II and we are considering this but also looking at what else is out there.
I've looked at the MSDS for this product and it seems to shows 0.0lb/gl for v.o.c Is this just rounded down? I've seen on other products where it is g/L. On the Titebond II it is 5.5 g/L.
Thanks!
POSTED BY MARTHA :: TEXAS USA :: 8:17 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
MSDS looks fine to me. Write back and let us know how you like this product.
Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
May 13, 2009Lumber for remodeling condoQUESTION: I wonder whether anyone can recommend lumber with which we can remodel our condo, because I started suffering from multiple chemical sensitivity since our moving into this condo three years ago.
Currently I'm relocated and finally have just started experimenting with lumber.
Unfortunately, we failed with our first experiment with lumber: Many books say that any broad-leaved trees are OK with MCS people, but it turned out to be not necessarily true.
By the way, I live in Tokyo, so the lumber you can recommend needs to be available in Japan. Thank you!
POSTED BY LMPD42 :: ALABAMA JAPAN :: 6:01 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
I think you are going to need to find a wood that YOU individually tolerate and have available.
What you want to do is stay away from aromatic woods that have resins, like pine and cedar, probably even fir (commonly used). Hardwoods like oak usually have less odor.
I suggest purchasing small samples of the various woods you have available in Japan, and testing them one by one at home. When you find one you like, buy a little more and continue to test to see if you can tolerate the amount of wood you will need for your remodel. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
April 21, 2009bathroom caulkQUESTION: I'm looking for a low odor, low voc caulk to use around tub fixtures. I have mcs. I want something that will last. Does anyone know of one? Has anybody tried titebonds caulks? POSTED BY M.M. :: PENNSYLVANIA USA :: 4:37 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
Here's the page that has the MSDS sheets for all the Titebond caulks: Titebond Caulk MSDS.
The few I looked at contain toxic petroleum distillates.
See more about caulk at Q&A: Caulk. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: 0 COMMENTS :: POST YOUR COMMENT
Chinese drywall poses potential risksQUESTION: Hi,
I saw this story in the AP wire and thought you and your readers would be interested in it. Thankfully, I live in an old house, so I can sidestep a lot of these issues but another thing to think about for those in newer residences.
Chinese drywall poses potential risks
Kelly
POSTED BY KELLY :: MICHIGAN USA :: 4:04 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
Here is another article on the same subject: Florida to test air in homes with Chinese drywall.
The articles say that drywall is making residents sick, but only drywall imported from China from 2004-2008, and the problem seems to be concentrated in Florida. So this isn't all drywall, only this specific drywall. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
Getting the low down on FlooringQUESTION: Hi Debra,
Thank you so much for all your help.
I'm looking at an engineered wood floor by a company called Simple Floors.com
I want to ask them about their construction materials and emissions levels, but am not sure what exactly to ask for so they know what I mean. Is there a standard report that companies have available with that sort of info? They just tell me about what good quality it is, but can't give me any specifics.
Unfortunately we can't afford the companies that are known for their non-toxicity (Eco Timber, Kahrs)
Thank you,
Laurel POSTED BY LAUREL :: CALIFORNIA USA :: 3:54 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
I don't know that there is a standard report that flooring companies have available, but they should understand if you ask them about indoor air quality emissions. They should be able to provide you with some kind of lab test results that show emissions.
When looking for an engineered floor, the main things that may be a problem in terms of toxicity are the substrait wood, the adhesive and the finish.
Usually the flooring has high-quality hardwood on top, with a lesser quality solid wood beneath. However, the substrait wood could be particleboard or plywood.
Many adhesives contain highly toxic solvents, which can outgass, so watch out for this.
The finish is usually fine, as it is baked on, which bakes off any toxic solvents it may contain at the time of application.
Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
April 03, 2009Solid wood bathroom vanityQUESTION: I have a question about bathroom vanity. I am looking to replace them, but where can I find solid wood, non-off-gassing vanities at reasonable price? I live in Tampa and am willing to drive over to Pinellas County. Do you have specific place you recommend in the area? Every place I have been has "solid wood" but with plywood.
Thanks. POSTED BY KJ :: FLORIDA USA :: 9:33 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
You need to go to an unfinished furniture store, which is where they sell solid wood cabinets. Cabinets stores and home improvement stores do not usually sell solid wood vanities.
We bought a solid wood vanity at Barewood Outlet, on US 19 near Countryside Mall in Clearwater. They have a website, where I found a catalog for unfinished solid wood vanities . They also have unfinished solid wood kitchen cabinets. These are pages from the manufacturer's website, which also has a store locator and customer service number.
Note that these are unfinished, so you need to apply the finish yourself. They are not prefinished like the cabinets you buy at a home improvement store. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: 0 COMMENTS :: POST YOUR COMMENT
March 16, 2009This Old HouseQUESTION: Dear Debra and readers
I moved to Michigan 5 years ago from California and started a remodel of an older home with my fiance. Having an auto immune disease and the meds required to control it must have set off a MCS reaction and I was very sick for a couple of years.
I moved out of that house and in with my mom who also has an older home. It was built in 1939. There are old carpets, dirty vents and much needed painting projects along with a small kitchen upgrade to complete. I have Hunter air purifiers all over that handle dust and pollen but not sure they could handle a remodel.
My question is where do I start to improve. I have my MCS somewhat under control but could be much better if I could get this old house fixed. There are covered hardwood floors throughout the home. I want to avoid ripping carpets and painting all at one time. Which would be better for my MCS? Do I go for the carpets first? My budget is small so I would welcome any ideas on where to get the biggest bang for my buck as I stumble through this project.
Thanks
Bonnie Johnson POSTED BY BONNIE JOHNSON :: MICHIGAN USA :: 1:58 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
I think you are on the right track with removing the carpets first. Then do the painting. It will cost less to remove the carpets and will improve air quality. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
March 09, 2009Wood Floors/stainQUESTION: I'm looking to stain and finish my wood floors. I was planning on using Vermont natural Coatings for the finish. The installer recommended "Duraseal quick coat". Have you had any experience with this product??
Thanks,
Gayle POSTED BY GAYLE :: MICHIGAN USA :: 8:48 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
I don't have any experience with the Duraseal product, but I LOVE Vermont Natural Coatings. My husband is about to finish the top of my desk with it. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: 0 COMMENTS :: POST YOUR COMMENT
February 17, 2009Floor adhesives.QUESTION: A friend gave us some floor adhesive to use in an outside building we were planning to put tile on the floor with. It's called Parabond Fusion Series 4600...floor adhesive. Can you tell me anything about this product? Don't want to use until I hear from you. Thanks. POSTED BY BARBARA COLE :: FLORIDA USA :: 7:10 AM CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
January 30, 2009fiberglass or steel exterior doorQUESTION: Hi Debra,
Both fiberglass and steel doors have a solid polyurethane foam core, is this safe if it is contained within the door?
And most of the doors come primed, should it be re-primed with safe materials. What would you recommend?
Thank you so much.
POSTED BY LORI :: CALIFORNIA USA :: 1:18 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
I have a steel exterior door and I can tell you there is no odor at all. The interior material is completely contained and the exterior finish is baked on. I have also painted this door and had no problems. The pain adhered to the finish beautifully.
I don't have any experience with fiberglass doors. Readers? Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: 0 COMMENTS :: POST YOUR COMMENT
January 20, 2009Adverse Reaction to CaulkQUESTION: I had my bathtubs caulked with AFM Safecoat and am having a reaction, burning face, lips, mood changes, headache, aches. Can I cover the caulk with packaging tape to eliminate the problem? Does anyone have a better solution?
Thanks POSTED BY NINA BALSAM :: MISSOURI USA :: 10:09 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
Readers, what have you to done to fix this problem? Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: 0 COMMENTS :: POST YOUR COMMENT
Lead FlashingQUESTION: Hello,
I was wondering how toxic lead flashing might be under a window sill? And if it's likely a person with MCS could react to it, despite it being outside? I've been feeling ill in my bedroom for several months now despite taking everything out of it, and yet I feel ok in the rooms in the downstairs of the house. I've been working through all the possibilities so any advice you could give me on the lead flashing would be very appreciated.
Many Thanks POSTED BY BRJ :: ALABAMA UK :: 9:57 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
Lead doesn't outgas, to my knowledge. It can be absorbed through the skin with skin contact and it can be inhaled if it is contained in dust (such as sanded paint), but just sitting there undistrubed, it doesn't contribute to air pollution.
I don't think this is the problem. But if anyone else has reacted to lead, I'm sure they will write! Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: 0 COMMENTS :: POST YOUR COMMENT
December 01, 2008Shower stallsQUESTION: Can you recommend a green, eco-friendly shower stall? I would have thought that tiles were the best option, but I was told that they absorb water and thus tend to produce mold. POSTED BY CJSTEWART :: FOR MY KIDS :: WWW.FORMYKIDSONLINE.COM :: TEXAS USA :: 6:12 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
I have tiles and they don't produce mold.
I don't know of any shower stalls that are not made of plastic. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
November 17, 2008
Know of any Yurts without chemically treated sides and top?QUESTION: Although we live in the country with pretty good air, seemingly healthy land, and a quiet environment(we used to live next to a freeway and much noise), we live in a toxic prefab home. Most every surface has chemicals or is synthetic. The toilets and sinks are the exception.
I was thinking that we could get a Yurt and sleep outside for that third of our life without chemicals, but every Yurt I looked up was polyester and vinyl, and treated with more chemicals. I am wondering if you or any readers are familiar with natural canvas yurts or with natural canvas tents and such and can refer me to a link or name of a business.
Beverly POSTED BY BEVERLY :: CALIFORNIA USA :: 1:41 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
Readers? Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
November 11, 2008non-toxic house swapsQUESTION: I am living in my non-toxic home and we would like to relocate to Pacific northwest. We do not want to sell just yet as we want to make sure that where we eventually move is good for me with my chemical sensitivity. We are looking to do a house swap with another chemically sensitive person. How do we go about this?
POSTED BY SARAH LAKELAND :: COLORADO USA :: 1:22 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
You could run an ad in Debra's Green Classifieds under Housing, stating that you have a nontoxic house to swap or are looking for a nontoxic house in a certain area.
This is part of why I set up this inexpensive ad service. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: 0 COMMENTS :: POST YOUR COMMENT
Floor Soundproofing MaterialQUESTION: Hi Debra,
I live in a downstairs apartment and the sound transfer between the two floors is terrible!
I did a lot of research into various underlayment products because the upstairs floors are about to be replaced.
I will probably be paying for the flooring and underlayment out of my pocket (otherwise the landlord is just going to put down cheap carpet), so I'm thinking Seagrass Matting from World Market (which by the way readers, IS treated with pesticides...I called and asked them) BUT I was able to offgas it to the point that it no longer caused my eye to twitch (!), the last time I installed it, by using an ozone machine (an "Aranator") for 30 days and didn't go in the room at all while it offgassed.
But back to the soundproofing....
My 2 best options of a soundproofing product for under the Seagrass Matting are Cork, and a product called "Step Above, Plus".
Step Above Plus, is made of Polyolefin resin, which Debra has already addressed in her answer to a reader's question about plastic bags....It's a petroleum product.
BUT I am wondering how toxic (if at all) it would be as a floor underlayment, under a breathable, seagrass mat. Obviously it's not great for our environment, but it's also more durable and less expensive. The company SAYS it has no VOC's and no smell...
Do you think a product that is made of polyolefin resin could impact my very sensitive health/recovery process? I've heard that cork also can put off a smell of some sort, so I'm a little worried about that too.
I don't THINK I'll be living in those rooms, but I'd like the option, in case I decide to move into that other part of the house at some point.
Thanks!
POSTED BY SUSI LOVE :: CALIFORNIA USA :: 1:02 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
There are some petroleum materials that do not outgas and this may be one of them. I don't have any experience with this product. If it does outgas, the seagrass will not block the fumes.
If it were me, I would probably use felted wool under the seagrass, like old blankets that are not mothproofed, or get wool batting and felt it. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
October 14, 2008CaulkQUESTION: I just recently purchased a "non-toxic" caulk from a site listed on "Debra's List." However, after I read the back of the bottle it lists the following items: "Contains TALC, 2,2,4-TRIMETHYL-1, 3-pentanediol MONO-SOBUTYRATE, VINYL ACETATE AND ACETALDEHYDE. MAY ALSO CONTAIN CARBON BLACK OR TITANIUM DIOXIDE." OK this concerns me because I don't really know what any of the above exactly means. Is this safe enough to use? Meaning, will it be safe after it dries? Or should I send it back? I was unable to download the MSDS from their website.
Also, I saw another reader to this blog tried the DAP Painters Acrylic Latex Caulk. Did it work for you? Any help would be much appreciated. We are trying to start our child's bedroom and we want it as safe as possible for him.
Diana POSTED BY DIANA :: OHIO USA :: 8:34 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
To answer your specific question first, these are all hazardous substances. That's why they are listed--as a warning. Is it safe enough to use? You may not find a safer one. Yes, it will be safe after it dries. You can also use heat to make it dry faster.
It's important for us to find the least toxic caulks available, because caulk is widely used throughout homes to block out air and water and fill gaps between building materials.
Unfortunately, I have yet to find what I would consider a nontoxic caulk. There was one we liked made by DAP, but I can't seem to find it any more.
A lot of things are changing in the world of caulk. Not so long ago there were only three basic ingredients used to make caulk: acrylic, latex, and silicone. Now there are also synthetic rubber caulks and modified silicone caulks...
But the one thing we are most interested in is toxicity. And with regard to that, caulks fall into two categories: water-based and solvent-based.
Water-based caulks are made from latex (which includes acrylic and vinyl, both of which are toxic). They clean up with water and have less odor, but they are still toxic (I've heard and read that they are "nontoxic," but this simply isn't so).
I went to both Lowe's and Home Depot looking for any indicator that any of the caulks and sealants on the shelf were water-based or low-odor and I could find none. However, online I did find some water-based caulks (and got the clue to look for "clean up with soap and water" on the label to indicate that it is water-based).
DAP Dynaflex 230 says that it is low-odor and has "low VOC content." However, if you look at the MSDS, it states that the product contains ethylene glycol, ammonia, formaldehyde, ethyl acrylate, acetaldehyde, and acrylonitrile--all hazardous substances.
DAP Kwik Seal 3.0 also is described as "Low odor and low VOC". It contains MICROBAN antimicrobial (just what we need--more toxic chemicals!) and it's MSDS notes it contains diisodecyl phthalate, trimethoxyvinylsilane, and xylenes.
OSI H2U is better. It's MSDS shows that the only hazardous ingredient is ethylene glycol.
OSI Polyseamseal Tub and Tile Adhesive Caulk is also "less toxic" in that the only hazardous chemical listed on it's MSDS is N-Butyl Acetate.
Note these are all very toxic chemicals that you don't want to be around. What we need to do is look at the MSDS for all the water-based caulks and pick the ones that are least toxic. I don't think there will be one that is nontoxic. If any of you want to help with this research, find water-based caulks, search on the brand name and "MSDS" (i.e. "Kwic Seal MSDS") and post the link to the product info and the MSDS. I'll interpret it. This would be a great service for us to compile this data, because caulk is so widely used and so toxic.
My husband, who is a very excellent builder, says that you can greatly decrease the amount of caulk used by "building tight," that is, placing building materials close together instead of leaving gaps that need to be filled with caulk. The only caulk we used in our entire bathroom remodel was around the shower door and the base of the toilet. We used 100% silicone caulk, which, though solvent-based, dried to odorless within a day. We could do this because we designed and built the entire room to be water-tight.
Solvent-based caulks and sealants are made from silicone or synthetic rubber. These are much more toxic and require solvents to clean up.
A good article to read for an overview of caulks and sealants is Fine Homebuilding: Making Sense of Caulks and Sealants, however ignore the part where they say that water-based caulks are nontoxic. I think the author just doesn't understand about what's toxic and what's not. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
October 13, 2008Less toxic expanding foam?QUESTION: We need to use foam in our new construction for a few issues
- to fill in gaps in ICFs (insulated concrete forms)
- to seal around windows
- to seal penetrations
I know that some foams like Great Stuff say things like "no formaldehyde" but there are other components, like isocyanate, which is a sensitizer. I know the odor dissipates over time, but not the toxicity.
I'm seeking suggestions for the least toxic foams. Thanks
Jill POSTED BY JILL :: COLORADO USA :: 5:27 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
Readers? Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: 0 COMMENTS :: POST YOUR COMMENT
Settling of wall insulationQUESTION: Hi Debra,
I am hoping you or some of the experts who read this site can help me with this problem: The insulation IN THE WALLS of our 37 yr old house has settled about a foot or so below the roof line, so that a lot of heat escapes at the top of the walls during the winter. (House was tested with a special camera.)
Does anyone have a suggestion as to how we could fill this space INEXPENSIVELY? I thought about the spray-in type insulation. Would this work? Any ideas? Someday, we hope to re-insulate the whole house when having the siding replaced, but that will not be in the budget for a while.
Appreciate the help,
Nell POSTED BY NELL :: COLORADO USA :: 5:04 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
Readers? Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
September 30, 2008Marvin Fiberglass WindowsQUESTION: I purchased several Marvin Fiberglass windows and had them installed two and one-half weeks ago. Right after installation we smelled a strong acrylic odor throughout the house, which has only abated a little bit.
After two weeks of research I discovered that the fiberglass is actually coated with something called "acrylic capstock". I have searched everywhere and cannot find out how harmful this odor is and when it will stop outgassing.
I have respiratory problems if I am in the house longer than a couple hours. Fiberglass is being touted as environmentally friendly and safe for sensitive individuals, but they don't ever mention the acrylic outgassing.
Does anyone know anything about this product and how I can find out how harmful it is to have my children sleeping in these rooms. Marvin says they have never heard of anyone complaining about the smell of these windows, which is hard to imagine because everyone who comes into my home smells them. It is getting colder and colder in Minnesota and I won't be able to have the windows all wide open much longer. POSTED BY SUZANNE :: MINNESOTA USA :: 7:52 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
I didn't know wha "acrylic capstock" was either, so I looked it up.
I found a reference that said, "acrylic resin family of products for capstocks". While I couldn't find a definition of capstock, from reading it in many contexts it appears to be a kind of protective coating that is applied to various materials, to provide exceptional durability and performance characteristics, including UV weathering resistance.
Acrylic is made from acrylonitrile, a special group of vinyl compounds. In my book Home Safe Home I noted that acrylonitrile is included on the Environmental Protection Agency's list of sixty-five "priority pollutants" recognized as being hazardous to human health. Scorecard: Chemical Profiles: Acrylonitrile notes that it is a carcinogen. Acrylic is also known to cause breathing difficulties, vomiting, diarrhea, nausea, weakness, headache and fatigue.
Marvin should be able to tell you the brand name of this capstock and from there you should be able to get an MSDS from the manufacturer.
If the smell is bothering you and you are having symptoms from it, then you need to do something to protect yourself and your children. Opening windows is great, an air filter would help, and you may even need to remove the windows or apply some kind of vapor barrier finish over the fiberglass parts.
There is a possibility that these windows are faulty in some way. Perhaps the acrylic resin was not completely cured or there is some other manufacturing defect.
This is definitely something that needs to be fixed. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
September 23, 2008Acrylic Bath TubsQUESTION: Are acrylic bath tubs safe or is porcelain the better choice? POSTED BY DEBBIE :: OHIO USA :: 8:38 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
Porcelain is the better choice. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: 0 COMMENTS :: POST YOUR COMMENT
September 15, 2008the best, safest windows?QUESTION: Hi,
my condo association is looking to replace windows in our older building. We know we want vinyl free, but we also want very energy efficient, potentially emf-blocking, nice looking windows (we need the kind with the grommets.) I wonder if there are any windows out there that are eco friendly, not too plastic heavy, and don't offgas. Anyone have recommendations?
Thanks! POSTED BY JESS :: MASSACHUSETTS USA :: 12:13 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
Readers? Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
July 29, 2008Joint Compound for WallboardQUESTION: Do you know of any other product besides MURCO (joint compound for wallboard)? It appears that Murco can only be bought through the company in Texas or other locations in Texas and I am in Florida and I have unexpected work to do asap in my house.
Or does anyone know of any place locally (South Florida) that carries Murco or any other joint compound product that is environmentally safe that is sold in a Home Depot etc?
Also does anyone know of any environmentally safe joint tape and where I can purchase it? Thank you. POSTED BY MURIEL :: FLORIDA USA :: 7:31 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
My husband and I have always used just the standard powdered joint compound sold by Home Depot and Lowe's and standard tape. I don't consider this to be a particularly toxic product, though some people with MCS do react to it.
Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: 0 COMMENTS :: POST YOUR COMMENT
July 08, 2008Finding Building/Remodeling Advice for MCSQUESTION: I read with interest about heating up a newly painted home in order to have it outgass more quickly! However, here in Hawaii, we generally don't have heaters in our homes - it is warm enough and humid enough that no one would ever turn them on unless living at high elevations during the "winter" season. So: what would you suggest for someone with MCS when trying to find products with which to build or refurbish a home with?
We have read about people researching products, installing what had been touted as "safe" and not offgassing bad chemicals into the air, painting with no-VOC paint (only to learn there are other chemicals IN those paints that do also offgass), etc, only to move in and then find they cannot tolerate living in the house! One is then relegated to a porch or a ?tent - but then, can one tolerate the fireproofing on that tent??! Very daunting. There is also the problem of contractors SAYING they have installed whatever, only to find out later that they haven't (they charge the home owner for the mor expensive alternative, and then, install something else - and pocket the difference!) - and worse yet, they have subsequently moved on and are no longer in business, so there is no legal recourse. These scenarios have been in our local papers and on TV programs as "consumer beware" items. All of this has set us back from doing anything, as we are NOT contractors, know little about the building business, etc. and are not sure we would be able to protect ourselves for the outcome, which we would like to be positive, in this process.
Any help anyone can lend would be appreciated - is there any kind of "resource" one can look up locally, ie, in phone book (under environmental something-or-other? I can't seem to find anything other than commercial type resources, or environmental testing at job sites, etc), who can act as a consultant for this type of thing, in order to insure proper and safe products are chose and then actually USED by the contractor? What type of certification does such a person have to have (ie, what certification would we be asking if they have?) I do have your new book as well, and have been busily printing off information from your site for our folder on safe home products! MANY thanks for your invaluable assistance with all this! POSTED BY LESLIE ADAMS :: HAWAII USA :: 2:58 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
First, even in Hawaii you can heat a home for a "bakeout." If you don't have central heat, you can use space heaters and do it room by room.
Yes, you do need to be alert to safety claims, but don't be discouraged by what you see on TV. People with MCS are successfully building and remodeling houses all the time, as I have done myself and we see on this blog.
There are consultants who can help you. I am available for paid telephone consultations and can help you choose products. There are now many green home improvement stores around the country, and you could see if you have one in your area.
I suggest that you call me for a personal consultation and I can help you choose some products and sort out your confusion on this subject. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: 0 COMMENTS :: POST YOUR COMMENT
June 02, 2008polycarbonate roofing for a greenhouseQUESTION: We have heard that there is an off gas to this, we want to use it for a large greenhouse-passive solar heat system for a new home. What do you know?? POSTED BY SALLY REINBURG :: CALIFORNIA USA :: 11:41 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
My understanding about polycarbonate is that it leaches bisphenol-A into food or water with which it has contact. I haven't heard that there are problems with it outgassing.
The rule of thumb is: the harder the plastic, the less it outgasses into the air. So logic would say that it would outgas very little. However, if it is in the sun, the warmth of the sun would cause it to outgas. But the result of that would be it would then be outgassed and would no longer outgas,
Readers, anyone with experience with a polycarbonate greenhouse? Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
May 19, 2008toxicity of airport turned into neighborhoodQUESTION: Hi again!
We are getting ready to move and are very strongly considering a neighborhood in denver called stapleton. This was formerly the denver airport. I have some concerns over whether this location could be a potential toxic nightmare! I have asked the people running it and they assure me that they have been extemely careful in cleaning it up and making sure no chemicals are left behind. But of course they would say that! How do I know for sure?? I have checked the scorecard website but unfortunately it pretty much encompasses all of denver county, which is a big place so it is really hard to tell whether stapleton is of the same level, better, or worse. The neighborhood has been named one of the top 10 greenest neighborhoods in america but I think that has more to do with being enviromentally conscious. While of course I support that, it is just as important to me to live in a safe, nontoxic environment.
Do you have any knowledge of airports turned neighborhoods, or similar things, or can you please point me in a direction to dig deeper?
Thanks! POSTED BY JEN :: COLORADO USA :: 12:28 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
Interesting. I'm currently living in San Francisco for a few months and here they are turning an old shipyard into a living community. And I'm sure we'll see more of this.
I have no experience with this, but I believe these kinds of projects require toxic site cleanup. I'd try the EPA for more information.
Readers, any ideas on this? Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: 0 COMMENTS :: POST YOUR COMMENT
how to make a brand new home that isn't green healthierQUESTION: Hi,
After reading your great book and using it to completely detoxify our current home, we now have found ourselves in a position where we will have to move. :(
We have found a home deal that is really too good to pass up financially, whereby we would purchase a brand new built home. Unfortunately the most this company can offer as to nontoxicity is low VOC paint inside. I know about "baking the house" before moving in, but you have typically suggested this with a green home.
Are there additional steps or suggestions for a home that isn't green built? We will request all hardwoods throughout and I know they don't use an adhesive to put them down. I also know they use the blown in cellulose insulation. And I know we will paint it with a zero VOC paint weeks before we move in and before we bake it. But unfortunatley there are some obvious downsides we can't get away from.
First are the vinyl windows with no option of wood or aluminum upgrades (nor would we be able to do this on our own until waaay down the road.) Second, they use some sort of PEX piping for the water which is supposed to be a softer type plastic. They claim less leaching than copper but I feel worried. We can't afford to replace all the piping but my husband suggsted mybe we could at least replace the pipes that carry the drinking water with copper for now.
And I am sure there are a multitude of other toxics associated with new home building. So I would truly value your input, are we crazy for going brand new?? Help! What can we do to make it better?
thanks!!! POSTED BY JEN :: COLORADO USA :: 12:23 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
I completely understand. But to address this is beyond the scope of this blog. I'd have to write a book to cover everything that might be in a new home.
We can talk about this over the phone in a paid telephone consultation. That way you can describe to me what is in the home and we can address those specific items, rather than have me write out all the possibilities.
Readers, if any of you have experience detoxifying a new home, please write and tell us what you did.
I just need to say, there are so many toxic things in a new home, I don't even look at them, personally. I understand this may look good financially, but it might cause more expensive problems to your health in the long run. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: 0 COMMENTS :: POST YOUR COMMENT
PlywoodQUESTION: We are moving into a house that is 22 years old. We are taking out all the carpet and replacing it with prefinished hardwood.
Should we rip out all the plywood (maybe MDF) and glue the hardwood to the concrete or do you think it would have completely out gassed by now and is safe to leave in?
Also, the moisture barriers that I've seen today are in a liqued form that are brushed on the concrete. How do I know if the liquid moisture barrier is safe? Lumber Liquidators uses a brand called Mapei for their adhesives and liqued moisture barrier.
Thanks so much for all your wonderful help!!
POSTED BY RONDA :: CALIFORNIA USA :: 11:56 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
After 22 years, if you want to leave the plywood in place, I think it would be fine. It would offer more cushioning than applying the hardwood directly to cement. And if you are installing the wood with glue, the glue will form a barrier that would block any outgassing of the plywood (if you completely cover the plywood with glue).
I hope you are using a nontoxic, water-based "woodworking glue" to glue the wood down.
Re the moisture barrier, take a look at the MSDS sheet for hazardous ingredients. I have installed wood floors with wood glue over cement without using any moisture barrier of any kind and it was fine. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
April 01, 2008Is there safe plywood?QUESTION: Hi
I have been using pine to make some things but my wood working friends have suggested that I use plywood instead. They say the plywood is stronger and easier to cut. I am very eco conscious and when I voice my concerns about using plywood one of my frind's reply is - "Well you are not going to eat off of it, what's the big deal?" Please share with me any info that you have about safe plywood. Thanks!!!! POSTED BY KSM :: MICHIGAN USA :: 7:15 AM CATEGORY — BUILDING :: 0 COMMENTS :: POST YOUR COMMENT
polyester insulation battsQUESTION: Hi Debra, I'm struggling with finding information on offgassing of polyester insulation batts. I read one site "ecospecifier' saying of one brand 'tontine' that the offgassing is low - do you agree with this? or even if you don't know about insulation batts just with polyester in general.
this is a great site and I am so pleased to find it.
thanks
Jacinta POSTED BY JACINTA :: NEW SOUTH WALES AUSTRALIA :: 6:49 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
Some years ago, I read that NASA measured the offgassing of various synthetic materials because they were having problems with film buildup on the inside of windows on spacecraft (like the film that builds up on the inside of car windows). I wrote about this in some of my earlier books, but don't see it in Home Safe Home. I'm not at home where I have all my past books, but one of you reading this has an old copy of The Nontoxic Home, I think it's in there and maybe you'll write in with the info.
Anyway, if I remember correctly, polyester outgassed the most of all the synthetic materials they tested. As far as I know, polyester is polyester, and it doesn't matter what the brand is.
Also in the past I've written about a study done by John Ott, which showed that polyester can cause impotence in men. Again, I don't have the exact reference here with me at the moment.
Regardless of the offgassing, polyester is made from nonrenewable crude oil, and doesn't biodegrade. You're in Australia. I believe they sell wool wall insulation there. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
March 21, 2008Moving - how safe is the region?QUESTION: Hi Debra-
We're moving out of our condo and into a house soon. I've got moderate MCS so I'm looking for the least toxic house I can find in our price range and general area. I live in northern California, in a small city surrounded by farms and agriculture. We may stay in this city or we may move to a nearby city which borders farms, industrial areas, and the larger Sacramento metropolitan area.
My question is: how can I find out about the environmental safety of a particular region?
I've tracked down basic info online, such as air quality for ozone, particulates, etc. But I want to know things such as what the actual dangers are for living near these specific farms or industrial zones. I'm concerned about pesticides and other toxic exposures, but I'm not sure if my concerns are overblown. I've rejected several good houses because they border the agricultural areas, or are right across the river from the industrial zone- because I get nervous about increased toxic exposure from increased proximity to the potential sources. I don't even know if these fields or industrial areas actually pose any real danger (they could be organic farms or low-impact rice processing plants)! So how do I find out? I don't know where to start or whom to ask. Do you have any ideas?
Thanks! Katie in Northern California POSTED BY KATIE :: CALIFORNIA USA :: 2:17 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
My book Home Safe Home has eight pages of answer to this question, beginning on page 416. Then it goes on with a checklist for choosing a nontoxic house. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
March 17, 2008Toxicity of nylon in sink spray hoses?QUESTION: I'm going to be replacing a kitchen sink faucet, and noticed that many on the market today have a pull out sprayer. This is convenient, but I notice that the spray hose is made from nylon. I am concerned that there may be chemicals that leach out into the water from such a hose. We would be using it for both hot and cold water and drink from our faucet as we have excellent well water ( but a bit on the acid side)
Any advice would be appreciated. POSTED BY LB :: CALIFORNIA USA :: 2:03 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
Nylon is a plastic, but it outgasses very little. I'm not concerned about sink spray hoses contaminating water that is rushing through them with only a fraction of a second contact time. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: 0 COMMENTS :: POST YOUR COMMENT
Interstate Highway and 2" x 4" Metal StudsQUESTION: I'm recovering from MCS problems (mostly petro-chemical related) and the neighborhood we live in has too many home owners that use chemical fertilizers and pesticides. So, we are looking for a new home to purchase.
We are contemplating purchasing a home that has a lot of "pluses" for my situation but there are a couple of unkowns that I would like some guidance:
1) It is located 1 mile from an Interstate highway that has moderate traffic. Is 1 mile away too close?? It heads north into Michigan but does not carry heavy traffic like I-94 which is major link between Chicago and Detroit.
2) The house is 8 yrs old and used metal studs throughout the construction of the home. Does anyone have any concerns re: the metal studs and emf?? I plan to take a gauss meter when we see the home. The current heat system is gas/forced air but we may convert to total electic. Would that be a problem? We do have room to put in a geothermal unit.
Your thoughts are appreciated. Thank you.
POSTED BY SUNNYSIDE :: MICHIGAN USA :: 1:29 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
Re Interstate Highway...One mile away is probably far enough, but you need to also consider wind direction. I wouldn't take this house if the wind were blowing from the direction of the highway, and it would certainly be fine if the winds were coming from the opposite direction.
Re metal studs...Though light gauge structural steel framing has enviornmental advantages (it's 95% recycled, requiring only 10% of the energy and resources required for processing fresh steel from ore), I personally am concerned about the EMFs.
Steel framing essentially sets up a Faraday cage, through which electromagnetic fields cannot pass. While this may be advantageous to protect one from manmade electromagnetic fields, it would also block the electromagnetic fields of Nature, to which our bodies attune. For this same reason, I don't sleep on a metal boxspring. In addition, steel framing may trap EMFs generated inside the home, preventing them from being dispelled into the larger external environment.
I don't have any specific data on steel framing creating the Faraday cage effect, it's just an observation that the elements are there for this to occur.
There is much information on the Internet on Faraday cages. Here is one quote from a website that no longer exists: "Folks, having a background in electrical engineering, I know about Faraday Cages. They are copper [other metals have the same effect] mesh cages which cancel out all the electromagnetic field (EMF) energy which constantly bombard us. They are used to shield delicate electronic equipment from stray EMF fields. Some people actually sleep in one to protect them from this energy radiation."
A reference about John Faraday and the development of the Faraday cage is at http://www.juliantrubin.com/bigten/ faradaycageexperiments.html. This site specifically states: "Some traditional architectural materials act as Faraday shields in practice. These include plaster with wire mesh, and rebar concrete. These will impact the use of cordless phones and wireless networks inside buildings and houses."
So if rebar in concrete is enough, I'm thinking steel studs may do it too. And it may block natural emfs even if it doesn't interfere with cordless phones and wireless networks.
Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
March 10, 2008Basement FloodingQUESTION: Debra,
This past year has brought with it an increase in the number of instances of flooding in our basement. We have a typical unfinished basement, and while the flooding used to occur only after unusually heavy rainstorms, we are now noticing small leaks occuring during moderate rainstorms as well. The leaks are in the crack between the wall and the floor. We are planning on building up the soil around our house in the spring to help the water drain away from the foundation, but would like to fix the leaks as well. The problem is beginning to drive me crazy as I'm getting tired of trying to keep the basement dry. I want to fix the leaks in the least toxic way possible (strong fumes give me migraines) but don't know where to begin. Any ideas?
Thanks. POSTED BY CL :: OHIO USA :: 3:12 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
I would start with AFM Enterprises. I'm pretty sure they have a less toxic waterproofing sealant. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: 0 COMMENTS :: POST YOUR COMMENT
Non-toxic alternative to silicon spray?QUESTION: Is there a non-toxic alternative to the silicon spray builders use that is not harmful to vinyl window frames?
I had the unfortunate experience of a window repairman using silicon spray on the difficult-to-raise vinyl window frame in my bedroom, to make it slide easier. I thought the smell (and my reaction) would dissipate quickly. Wrong! My bedroom continued to smell like an auto repair garage.
I tried to wash the spray off in every place I could reach. That didn't help much. Then I rubbed the frame down with orange oil. Helped a bit, but the silicon spray smell quickly returned. Now I've used peppemint oil repeatedly on the frame and into the corners with an eye dropper. After two weeks, it seems to helping.
I think the toxic smell has almost gone, but the repair people are coming back to replace the sash and I need to have an alternative to the silicon spray for them to use. It needs to be something with the slipperyness of silcon spray. I've tried olive oil, but without much success. They said not to use WD40 which leads me to guess that anything with petrochemicals would be harmful to the vinyl. In any event, I wouldn't be able to tolerate something with petrochemicals.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
POSTED BY ESTHER :: CA USA :: 2:55 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
Readers? Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
February 29, 2008Galvanised MetalQUESTION: I am currently involved in a non toxic construction project and was wondering if you could give me some information on galvanised metal. Ive heard metal is a good material to use for the chemicaly sensitive in general especially stainless steel. But are galvanised metals still safe? I cant seem to find any information on the process and was wondering whether by making the metal weather proof it was made toxic in some way? Is galvised steel toxic? Or potentially harmful to the chemicaly sensitive?
Thank you so much for your time. POSTED BY RALPH JONES :: INDIANA USA :: 7:08 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
Galvanizing is the process of coating iron or steel with a thin layer of zinc to prevent the metal from rusting. There are two methods: "hot-dipped", which consists of passing the continuous length of metal through a molten bath, followed by an air stream "wipe" that controls the thickness of the zinc finish; and "electro-galvanizing", which fuses the zinc to the metal electrolytically.
I don't see anything toxic about this. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: 0 COMMENTS :: POST YOUR COMMENT
February 02, 2008Drying and sealing woodQUESTION: I have mcs and have been living and sleeping outside in my garden for three years because I cannot tolerate the building materials in my house. My mcs is such that i will become sensitive to any toxic substance if im around it too long. I have tried to build me a non toxic shelter out of just wood nails and slate. I understand freshly cut wood is toxic for a time. Do you know how long it takes to outgas fully? And after that what is the best non toxic substance to seal it with. The wood is douglas fir. POSTED BY BEN JONES :: WEST SUSSEX UK :: 3:47 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
I wouldn't say "freshly cut wood is toxic for a time."
First, each type of wood is different. Though it is all wood, each type has different characteristics. For example, both redwood and cypress contain elements that make them more impervious to insect infestations and dry rot. Cedar is much more fragrant than, for example, Douglas fir. Pine contains a lot of resin. So people with individual sensitivities may be sensitive to certain, or all, woods, but wood is not "toxic" in the same sense as many manmade petrochemical products.
How long does it take to outgas fully? I think you are asking, how long would it take before any odiferous elements would no longer smell. I think that relates to how much moisture is in the wood, and as it dries, there is less wood odor.
How long it takes for wood to dry is quite variable, as it depends on how dense and porous the wood is, the relative humidity of the air, how much air circulation there is, and temperature.
When wood is freshly cut, it has a lot of water in it. It needs to be dried for specific uses. Firewood, for example, is cut to size and then piled up to "season" for a year. It needs a year of just sitting outdoors in the elements to allow enough water to evaporate before it will burn. Freshly cut "green" wood will not burn.
For construction, the wood must be in equilibrium with the outside air. For indoor use, as in furniture or cabinets, wood must be in equilibrium with the air indoors.
Most commercial wood that you would buy in a store is "kiln-dried," which means it has been dried to a specific standard "equilibrium moisture content." From experience I would say that this is not sufficiently dry to remove any odor from the wood. I have used a lot of pine for building and have noticed that when I first bring it home that it smells like pine, but after about a year, there is no more odor. Most kiln-dried wood still smells of wood, but the smell dissipates over time. I would say that one year would be enough for most woods like Doug fir. It wouldn't be enough for a wood like cedar.
I'm not clear from your post if you are asking about wood you would purchase or wood you would mill from fresh-cut trees. The purchased wood would take about a year to be odor-free. Fresh cut wood would take about two years from the time it was cut to be odor-free. Of course, you could speed these times by using heat to dry them, however, if you do, learn something about the process first. In kilns, both heat and humidity are controlled so the wood doesn't crack in the process.
In terms of sealing the wood, the least toxic sealer I am aware of are the sealants made by AFM. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
February 01, 2008Spray Foam InsulationQUESTION: Hello Debra,
I am a residential architect in the midwest specializing in sustainable design and have been recently introduced to your site and blog by one of our future clients. Together, we are hoping to build a new Green home for them that will be as non-toxic as possible given my clients family's health concerns.
In our office we have been specifying a low-density spray foam insulation that would be installed in the wall and rafter cavities called Icynene. There are many other products on the market in this category but after doing research, including some actual product testing ourselves, we have landed on this as the spray foam insulation of choice.
The manufaturer actually touts the healthy aspects of their product and its low toxicity as being one of its strong suits. We have, in fact, been told by manufacturer's reps that once cured the product is so inert it can actually be eaten without adverse affect! We have passed on that particular test, however.
What is your, or your reader's, experiences with this product and its toxicity levels?
POSTED BY MICHAEL KLEMENT :: ARCHITECTURAL RESOURCE :: ARCHITECTURALRESOURCE.COM :: MICHIGAN USA :: 6:23 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
I have no personal experience with this product, however, it has come up in this blog several times before. To read those posts, you can find the links at Icynene Search Results.
Readers, what is your experience? Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
foam insulationsQUESTION: Hi Debra,
I'm attempting to learn about the MANY different types of insulation being used these days. It seems spray insulation is becoming very popular because,in part,it repells moisture. Is there any that you recommend, or feel are safer than others?? An architect told me about "Icynene". Are you familiar with this one?
I understand some use denim(cotton) or wool, but there is the consern of moisture/mold potential. What options do you think are the safest??
Thank you,
Gayle POSTED BY GAYLE ELLIAS :: MICHIGAN USA :: 5:59 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
You know, I would love for some green builders to chime in on this one, as I haven't done enough research on this product to give you the answer you want.
Readers? Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
Vinyl Clad WindowsQUESTION: I'm looking to buy windows. I have looked at Andersons wood interior with vinyl clad exteriors. As long as the vinyl is on the outside and I seal the wood on the inside, should I be safe as a MCS person? I have read the entrees on windows and the problem with the exterior vinyl clad was not explained. POSTED BY BILL :: TENNESSEE USA :: 5:17 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
It's up to you to decide if you are safe from vinyl on the outside of your house. Yes, it is outside, but I have personal experience of fumes coming inside my house from materials used outside, so I make a point of exterior materials being as safe as interior materials. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
January 28, 2008Engineered Stone CountertopsQUESTION: We are in the process of replacing our countertops with a product called Granite Transformations which is an engineered stone product made of 95% crushed granite and 5% resin to hold it together. It creates a non-porous surface that doesn't have to be sealed like regular granite does. It is only 1/4 inch thick and is glued down with an epoxy resin adhesive on top of your existing countertops so there is no demolition and disposal of old countertops. I'm wondering if there are any potential health concerns from using a product like this, particularly from the resin that holds it together or from outgassing from the adhesives used to install it? In your opinion, is this a "safe" product to use?
POSTED BY KAREN :: NORTH CAROLINA USA :: 12:18 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
Without seeing a sample of this, I can only answer in general about engineered stone. I've seen many samples of different kinds, and have never noticed an odor. It appears to be extremely hard and inert. Can't speak for your exact product as I have never seen it. Also, the amount of resin is extremely small in comparison to the amount of stone.
The epoxy glue contains toxic chemicals that will smell to high heaven during application, but once it is cured, it will be inert. Also, whatever fumes that may be present would not get through the engineered stone.
I like the idea of installing these counters over the old ones.
That said, this is an objective evaluation only, I have no experience with this.
Anyone have experience? Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: 0 COMMENTS :: POST YOUR COMMENT
Structural Insulated Panels (SIP)QUESTION: We are looking into building a "Green" home and a builder we interviewed uses "SIPS". They told us of the structural advantage, as well as how it keeps heating and cooling cost down as they make the house very air tight.
What is known about this material? How long has it been used? What are the drawbacks?? Anything new scares me as I don't want to go with it and learn ten years from now that it's the "new asbestos". Any information is greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Gayle POSTED BY GAYLE :: MICHIGAN USA :: 11:56 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
Structural insulated panels (SIPs) are a composite building material, a sandwich of two layers of structural board with an insulating layer of foam in between (you can see a good picture of in on the website of the Structural Insulated Panel Association). The board is usually oriented strand board (OSB) and the foam either some type of polystyrene or polyurethane foam.
While these perform well with regards to saving energy, they are not a good material with regards to toxicity. I was about to just comment on the materials themselves, but then I found a paper called Structural Insulated Panels: Sustainable Design Incorporating Impact on Indoor Air Quality which gives the result of actual testing of emissions from SIPs. Using small-scale chambers, emissions were measured over a period of four months. The measured emission factors were then used to estimate the concentrations of VOCs in SIP-based manufactured houses. The testing found formaldehyde, toluene, styrene, and other volatile toxic chemicals to be present.
In my new book Really Green, I talk about how products have many facets, and can be beneficial in one aspect, while harmful in another. This is just such a case. Yes, using SIPs improves the energy efficiency of a home, but it also adds toxic chemicals to indoor air and is made from non-renewable crude oil and will not bio-degrade. So I wouldn't consider this to be an overall good green choice.
This is a good example of why I wrote Really Green. There are so many products now being promoted as "green," yet those who are promoting them aren't looking at the whole picture. This is exactly why we as consumers need to know for ourselves how to evaluate products for being green so we can decide for ourselves if a product is green in the ways that matter to us. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: 0 COMMENTS :: POST YOUR COMMENT
January 20, 2008bathtub sealerQUESTION: The seal under the bathtub drain gave out and water leaked out. Plumber used plumbers putty as a sealant and I found out that was really bad for me. I need something safer. Any suggestions? POSTED BY PAT BURKETT :: TEXAS USA :: 8:48 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
I asked my husband about this and he went under the kitchen sink and brought out a little tub of plumber's putty. He looked on the label and said, "It says all ingredients are non-hazardous." He put it on my desk, and after about fifteen minutes I started reacting to it. I felt woozy and started making a lot of mistakes typing, which I don't usually do.
So I looked up
Oatey's Plumber's Putty MSDS and found that it contains 10-30% non-specific "hydrocarbons" (and zero VOCs--that doesn't make sense to me) along with limestone, talc, clay, and fish oils. Yes, I think you could have a reaction to this.
The alternatives seem to be silicone caulk, which will dry where plumber's putty never cures, or a rubber or silicone gasket. My husband and I had quite a time trying to find such a gasket online with no success. He said the drain should come with a gasket and you should be able to just get a gasket. I'd try a plumbing supply house.
Readers, any other suggestions? Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
January 08, 2008Bathtub resurfacingQUESTION: I would like to know if bathtub resurfacing is safe. The contractor said there would be an odor only when it is wet. It takes 3 days for it to dry completely. Staying out of the houdse for that long is not a problem, but does anyone know if it continues to outgas after that time?
Thank you,
Karen POSTED BY KAREN :: AZ USA :: 11:50 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
It makes sense to me that it would be fine once cured, however, I have no actual experience with this.
Readers, has anyone actually done this? Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
November 27, 2007very old tub--lead concernsQUESTION: Hello, I have a very old tub in my house. It tested positive for lead. I take very hot baths. How much of a problem is this(If I don't swallow the water)?
I hate to get rid of it, since it's a beauty (and what a waste!) But I and my 5 year-olds like to take baths. I looked into refinishing (encapsulation) and all the chemicals used in that seem pretty nasty. The companies say that once they refinish, it is perfectly safe. What do you think?
Also, if this is the best bet for me, what company would you recommend? Some people have said that I need to be wary, as companies don't always follow through and the bonding doesn't work and they are stuck with a mess.
Finally, if I were to invest in a new clawfoot tub, what company makes the best ones? Thank you for your help.
POSTED BY S.C.M. :: PA USA :: 11:12 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
I wrote about lead in tubs in my book Home Safe Home. Unfortunately, at the moment, I don't have a copy with me to consult.
As best as I can recollect, bathing in a tub that tests positive for lead is not a good idea, as the lead will get into the water and be absorbed by the body.
To have the tub refinished would be a toxic process, but the enamel, once completely cured would be safe.
I can't recommend a company, as I have no personal experience with this.
I also haven't researched the companies that make new clawfoot tubs, but all new tubs should be lead-free. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
November 20, 2007Safe Windows & Patio DoorsQUESTION: Debra,
I have MCS and I'm looking for a safe brand of Windows & Patio doors to use in my home. You have mentioned Jeld-Web Auralast in your column some time back, but there are also windows and doors made out of Fiberglass, steel and aluminum.
Can you recommend any other safe brands/Materials or let me know where I might find this information?
Thanks.
POSTED BY IAN GREENBERG :: NEBRASKA USA :: 3:12 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
From a toxicity viewpoint only, aluminum and steel would be safe for people with MCS.
Readers, what are your recommendations for these products? Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
October 30, 2007Nontoxic eco trailer homeQUESTION: I just want to recommend a look at the materials used in this product which is an eco mobile home.
It is built to be low and non-toxic, easy care, have good air quality, and even uses alternative energy. It's from Canada and is launching in the US also this year, for a little over $100,000. The name of it is the mini eco home. If it is this good I think everyone should hear about it! I wish everyone in trailers lived in a nice place like these instead of accumulating environmental illnesses! Anyway the materials used are of interest I think.
http://sustain.ca/ POSTED BY FRAN :: TX USA :: 12:00 AM CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
September 17, 2007non-toxic stucco productsQUESTION: Hi Debra,
I've recently discovered that I am sensitive to many different chemicals as well as preservatives in food. I discovered your site while checking on the kitchen cabinets I just ordered from Kraftmaid--all plywood construction.
We are in the process of building a tire bale house in the mountains of Colorado and, when finished, will become a thermal mass. No, the tire bales do not outgas since they are all well used tires. (keeps the mout of the landfill...) The tire bales are actually covered in (shot-creted) concrete and form the structural integrity of the house. The walls are about 6 feet thick. I can overcome concrete dust by nasal washing. The floors are polished concrete as part of the thermal mass.
As we are planning the interior stucco, dry wall, and paint I am wondering which of these products I should be looking at to keep down my reactions. We mostly choose products based on greatest energy efficiency. We've looked carefully at Sto stucco products and are using them for the exterior. We're looking at another interior stucco product with fibers in it that has to be applied while wearing protection (mask & goggles), and I am wondering if the fibers will still be "in the air" once we are finished applying it to the tire bale walls, and how long those fibers will be in the air. I know how "dusty" dry wall can be, and I don't plan to be in the house while that activity is going on. But, I'm wondering if there is an alternative to regular dry wall. I think I can find some recommendations on your blog on paint.
I would appreciate any references or research on stucco and dry wall products.
Thanks for all the good info.
POSTED BY LAURA :: HAGAR TIRE BALES :: WWW.HAGARTIREBALES.COM :: COLORADO USA :: 5:42 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
I'm not aware of any health problems associated with stucco, but I'm puzzled about using this as an interior finish, since it is generally an exterior finish, designed to withstand weathering.
Dry wall itself is not toxic, though there is a small amount of toxicity to the mud (see Q&A: Sheetrock)
For paints, if you are chemically sensitive, I would choose a low-VOC paint or milk paint rather than a natural paint because the natural paints tend to have strong odors from the natural oils and resins. These can take a while to cure.
My suggestion for your concrete walls would be colored plaster. In our bathroom we used colored plaster from American Clay Plaster and we loved it! My husband loved working with it and we love how it looks.
There's actually a whole book about working with plaster that can give you some ideas: The Natural Plaster Book: Earth, Lime and Gypsum Plasters for Natural Homes. This will give you a softer finish than stucco and lasts as long as your house. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
September 12, 2007Nontoxic Waterproof CaulkQUESTION: Debra, I noticed in the pictures of your bathroom remodel that you installed a glass shower door. What type of caulk did you use to install this door? I have been having a hard time finding a nontoxic waterproof caulk. Thanks, Jim POSTED BY JIM OTT :: TEXAS USA :: 6:11 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
We used DAP Silicone Caulk, which is easily available at Lowe's and Home Depot. It's the least toxic one we've found that is sold in general stores. It has some odor, but it dissipates within a day.
If any of you have found less toxic caulks, please post a comment so we can have them here. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: 0 COMMENTS :: POST YOUR COMMENT
September 04, 2007siding optionsQUESTION: Hi Debra,
My husband and I need to replace the 35 year old aluminum siding on our townhome. We are on a very tight budget, but want to be green-friendly and avoid vinyl siding. What are our options?
Thanks,
k. POSTED BY K.M.T :: PENNSYLVANIA USA :: 4:26 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
Here's what I wrote about siding in Home Safe Home.
Wood siding is the most widely used residential siding. It comes in many styles, including siding made from wood reclaimed from old barns. Wood is a natural material, but people often "protect" is with stains, paints, and preservatives. These are often toxic and need repeated applications, which takes time, costs money, and creates ongoing toxic exposures.
The good news is that many solid woods used to make siding--such as cedar, redwood, and cypress--are extremely durable, even without finishes. They weather to an attractive gray and can last for years. Or you could use cedar shingles...
Siding is also available made from various combinations of wood chips and resins, called hardboard siding. Though the samples I've seen have been nontoxic, there have been many quality problems with this type of siding, so check into products carefully before you make a decision. Plywood siding is also available.
There are two choices for siding made of cement. Stucco, one of the most durable sidings available, is cement mixed with sand and hydrated lime, applied like plaster. The desired color pigment is mixed into the finish coat, so painting is not required. A newer cement product is fiber-cement exterior plank siding, which really does have the look of natural wood siding yet resists damage from extended exposure to humidity, rain, snow, salt air, and termites [if I were siding my house today, this would be my choice here in Florida].
The primary advantages of aluminum siding are longecity and relatively low maintenance. Sidings with factory-applied enamel finishes would be nontoxic. Steel siding is popular in areas of the country where major hailstorms are prevalent. Like aluminum, it is available in different colors with factory-applied enamel finishes and is extremely durable.
Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
August 29, 2007SheetrockQUESTION: Debra,
I realized that I also need to ask about sheetrock. Is there anything I should be aware of in that area?
thanks again ! :) POSTED BY MARY :: GEORGIA USA :: 11:09 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
There's nothing in sheetrock you need to be concerned about. We just use standard sheetrock from any home improvement store.
There is a small amount of chemicals in the mud used on the tape to seal the seams. I know there are some less toxic brands available, but we have never used them because the amount of chemical is so small. Still, some people who are very sensitive prefer the other. If you want to go with the standard mud for convenience, you can minimize exposure to whatever chemicals that may be present with ventilation and by using heat to dry it quickly. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
insulation in wallQUESTION: Hi Debra,
We are adding a wall downstairs in our storage area. We wanted to used the encapsulated insulation but cannot find it for sale in our area , isn't that kinda crrazy ???
Now my question: Is it necessary to use the encapsulated insulation in a wall ...since the insulation will be enclosed in the wall anyway ?
Thanks for your info....I love your website & have passed it on to our local H.E.A.L. group.
POSTED BY MARY :: GEORGIA USA :: 11:08 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
Well, I don't know, but there are some green builders on this blog, so I'm sure we'll get an answer!
Readers? Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
August 27, 2007CementQUESTION: Debra,
We put some cement on the bricks in the basement, to keep mold from coming in. Was cement the wrong thing to use around my daughter who is cemically sensitive, and will
eventually out gas?
Denise POSTED BY DENISE :: DENISE ARIAS :: :: IL USA :: 11:11 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
Cement is an inert material that does not outgas. It is safe for people with MCS.
However, cement is porous and can allow misture to pass through. It won\'t prevent mold growth. I witnessed this some years ago when I had a cement block retaining wall holding up a hillside. It was often damp and grew lots of nice moss! Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: 0 COMMENTS :: POST YOUR COMMENT
July 31, 2007An Environmentally Friendly DrivewayQUESTION: My husband and I are in the unpleasant position of having to overhaul our driveway. Any way you slice it, its expensive, especially for first-time homeowners. Asphalt seems to be an awful choice but that only leaves us with concrete, right? It was suggested that we try crushed granite or limestone but I don't think that's allowed in our subdivision. We're in the midwest with extremes on both ends of the weather scale, but not for extended periods of time. Any recommendations for putting in an environmentally friendly driveway?
POSTED BY EPARTHUR :: WISCONSIN USA :: 4:29 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
I think what you want is something called "permeable pavement" or "pervious pavement" which allows water to go through instead of running off. Some is made from recycled materials. There is some info on this at Q&A: Synthetic Turf (scroll down) but you can learn more by searching on these terms with your favorite search engine. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
How long does vinyl flooring offgas?QUESTION: Hi,
Can anyone tell me how long the worst of the offgassing is from vinyl flooring? I'm living with my parents and I can't talk them out of installing new vinyl flooring in the kitchen and laundry room.
And can anyone recommend a non-toxic adhesive that can be used with vinyl flooring?
Thanks very much!
Jennifer
POSTED BY JENNIFER :: CALIFORNIA USA :: 3:43 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
Vinyl flooring takes a loooong time to outgas. Definately not recommended.
Offhassing can be accelerated with the use of heat. If your parents would allow it, I recommend closing all the doors and windows, the putting a space heater in the closed room. Let it bake for a few days, then air it out by opening the windows. Repeat this as many times as you need to until you no longer smell the vinyl. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
July 30, 2007Drywall danger?QUESTION: I'm looking for information on drywall compound or what contracters call "mud". I had a few home improvements done - hardwood put on the stairs (sealed with Polyureseal BP, a very low VOC poly applied off-site several weeks ago and attached with nails only) and we had some bathroom fans replaced. The contractor had to cut new holes for the bathroom fans and then repair the drywall. I started having some dizziness yesterday, and it coincides with the drywall repairs. However, it's now dry, and it was my understanding that it's not particularly toxic stuff to begin with and had no odor. Anyone have info? Thank you! POSTED BY LC :: VIRGINIA USA :: 4:54 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
My understanding is that "mud" is not all that toxic to begin with, although the premixed mud can contain some volatile chemicals that outgas pretty quickly. You could use heat to make sure everything is outgassed and see if that works.
Readers, anyone have any other ideas? Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
July 02, 2007PVC PlumbingQUESTION: I have recently bought a 37-year old house and I am slowly renovating it. One of the jobs involves redoing some plumbing. A plumber friend of mine was extolling the virtues of the new plastic pipes that are currently used by plumbers. He didn't know what sort of plastic it was but that it was "much safer than metal" because of the chemicals in the solder used to attach metal pipes. I called Home Depot and the woman told me the plastic pipes were PVC. Surely not!? Which way do I jump on this issue? POSTED BY SAMANTHA :: ONTARIO CANADA :: 1:04 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
My husband says, "It's time to get another plumber!"
The solder used to attach copper pipes USED to contain lead. Now you can easily buy lead-free solder, and it may be that lead solder is no longer sold at all (I don't know the regulation on this offhand.
PVC pipe is toxic to manufacture, toxic to use, and the solvent glue used to attach them is MUCH MORE TOXIC that solder for copper pipe.
I'd go with the copper. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
June 25, 2007Safety of Cellulose InsulationQUESTION: I need to supplement the existing (fiberglass) insulation in the outside walls of my home. (It is in the San Francisco Bay area; it is not terribly cold here but my heating bills are too high.) Cellulose insulation sprayed into the wall cavity from the outside would be the easiest and least expensive way to go but I am concerned whether or not the ink residues and other possible chemical additives could seep though the inside walls and make my otherwise very healthy home become a problem for me. I am chemically injured so I need to be very careful about any changes that are made to my home. I am interested in other peoples experiences with this product.
Thank you,
Charlotte
Berkeley, CA POSTED BY CHARLOTTE SHOEMAKER :: CALIFORNIA USA :: 9:49 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
Readers? Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
June 19, 2007Is Fresh Cut Lumber Toxic?QUESTION: My husband is building bed frames for my family. The wood was purchased at a local Lowe's. It's unfinished wood. However, the smell of the wood is quite strong. It causes me to feel a bit nauseated and headachey. Which causes me to wonder. if plain lumber is typically treated with something? Or is it just the old fashion smell of wood that's bothering me?
Is raw wood purchased at the local hardward store potentially toxic?
Thank you kindly. POSTED BY WEN :: CALIFORNIA USA :: 11:21 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
I've purchased a lot of raw wood from various lumberyards and home improvements centers, and it's been my experience that it's simply the smell of the wood itself. I'm not aware that ordinary lumber is treated with anything, unless it is specifically stated.
Many people do have reactions to the smell off wood itself, particularly pine and cedar. I've found that the smell of the wood dissipates within a week or two, as the fresh cut is exposed to air.
I wouldn't say that raw untreated wood is potentially toxic in the sense that it can damage cells, but I would say that some people can have symptoms as a result of being exposed to raw wood. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
May 14, 2007How do we find a green contractor?QUESTION: How do we find a contractor who will use non-toxic materials and decoration to finish our basement in the Naperville, IL area? We have children on the autism spectrum and want to convert our basement into a play area, a sensory gym area, and a therapy area...we need a kitchen, a bathroom, and a workout room as well. POSTED BY TB :: ILLINOIS USA :: 3:43 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
I'm lucky. I have my own personal green contractor—my husband. He and I have been remodeling houses to be healthy and eco-friendly for almost twenty years now. But if I didn't have Larry, I would need to find a contractor who could build to my health and environmental specifications. Sometimes I do need to hire subcontractors.
Green building is a large field that encompasses everything from healthy indoor air quality to using resources efficiently and choosing building products made from ecologically sound growing and manufacturing practices. Most contractors don't have training, experience, or even awareness of these issues, but more and more contractors are learning about the subject and offering their services.
In some areas of the country there has been enough interest in green building that there are now quite a few contractors and other building professionals who have some kind of experience and training in building green. In areas where there are no experienced or trained contractors, look for someone who has done at least something that shows they have some interest and willingness to learn about and use green products. Stay away from contractors who express doubt or uncertainty about green products.
Nearly 250 general contractors across America have completed the requirements for LEED Professional Accreditation. Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) is the leading organization that is establishing standards for green building in the U.S. and certifies building projects according to these standards. Accreditation identifies individuals who have demonstrated detailed knowledge of LEED project certification requirements and processes and a command of integrated design principles by passing a comprehensive exam. (To access their database of accredited general contractors, go to http://www.usgbc.org/, then click on "Education", then "LEED AP Directory" in the navigation bar.)
If you don't need (and don't want to spend money on) a contractor who can help you pass the LEED requirements for certification. The National Association of the Remodeling Industry (NARI) is gearing up a green contractor program to serve the average homeowner. NARI is working on a national program to train general contractors to add green options to their projects—things like Energy Star appliances, low-e windows, FSC-certified hardwood floors, and cabinets that don't outgas formaldehyde. They want their contractors to be familiar with green building products and offer them to their clients. NARI has local chapters so contact your local chapter to find out about green contractors in your area.
Some areas already have their own local education and certification programs for contractors. Ask around at places like local natural food stores, hardware stores, or a green building materials store, if you have one in your community. GreenHomeGuide is now building a directory of green building professionals across the country, so that is a place to look too.
My advice is to first do your own research on green building and decide which aspects are most important to you. Some green contractors know how to build a passive solar house, but know nothing about reducing toxic exposures from building materials. Make sure the green contractor you choose has knowledge in the area of green building you are most interested in.
And, finally, here's a tip from my own experience: Be sure to plan ahead exactly which materials will be used and have a signed agreement about this. If you are building a house from the ground up, the architect will write specifications. But if you are remodeling, you may not have these. Have the contractor go over the entire process and tell you all the materials and finishes he is going to use. Then watch carefully while they are working. I've had subcontractors suddenly want to use a toxic adhesive or mold inhibitor that "we always use" only to find it's very toxic.
So do your homework. Find the green materials and building practices you want to use, then find a contractor who will use them. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: 0 COMMENTS :: POST YOUR COMMENT
May 04, 2007safe insulation?QUESTION: I'm in the process of planning a safe home building project (so I can move out of my tent!) I've had trouble testing every insulation (even the soy foam). I do ok with the Ultra Touch, but am worried about mold issues. Do you have a personal favorite you recommend? Or perhaps an insulation that you've heard many people with MCS do ok with? (There is no local dealer for Air Krete so that's out.)
If I do need to go with a spray in insulation, would soy foam or icynene be a safer bet?
Thank you!
Jill POSTED BY JILL SVERDLOVE :: COLORADO USA :: 5:34 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
I'm going to let readers with experience with insulation answer this one... Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
April 20, 2007wood flooring installers in Los Angeles?QUESTION: I want to put wood flooring in my kitchen and want to use regular hardwood that the installers will finish to match the wood floors already in my home. Does anyone know where I can find a company who can do this using non-toxic methods? I live in Los Angeles.
Thanks
Stacy POSTED BY STACY :: CA USA :: 9:57 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
Readers? Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
April 12, 2007non-toxic tile adhesive (Canadian)QUESTION: Hi
I'm trying to find a non-toxic adhesive for ceramic wall tile to attached to drywall. I researched and found several Capitol, Mohawk Floor Adhesives and Quiet Tile adhesive. The problem is I can't find Canadian distributors. Do you have any suggestions or other recommendations? Thanks alot. POSTED BY J S :: ALBERTA CANADA :: 5:01 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
I'm not familiar with Canadian products (I have enough to keep track of in the United States!) but I know there are a lot of Canadian readers on this blog. So, Canadians, what do you recommend? Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
How long for refinished wood floors to outgas?QUESTION: I need a new house, and with MCS I have so many limitations it is being quite a challenge. I have found a lovely home, but it had remodeling done about 8 months ago, i.e. new baths, kitchen cabinets (all wood construction), painting, and refinished hardwood floors. The house has been vacant since the remodeling. I haven't been inside yet because they were using plug-in "air fresheners".
Can you give me any help in estimating how long it generally takes for two coats of polyurethane to outgas in a closed up house? I really need to move soon. My current house is making me sicker and sicker.
Thank you so much.
Eileen POSTED BY MEW :: VIRGINIA USA :: 4:26 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
Well, first of all, I wouldn't wait for polyurethane to dry in a closed-up house. If you want it to cure faster, I would open the windows for more ventilation, or close them and turn up the heat and bake it to accelerate the outgassing.
I'm hoping you used a water-based polyurethane. If not, it will take longer to cure. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
April 10, 2007Flooring: Least Expensive and Least ToxicQUESTION: Debra~
We are trying to decide on the least expensive flooring that is also the least toxic. We've looked through all of the information on flooring you have here and have 4 questions:
First, would the aluminum oxide finish on the Lumber Liquidators cork tiles dust into the air at all with friction (walking, sliding furniture)? What about with the acrylic finish on the wood parquet tiles from Lowe's? Does being baked-on mean that the particles of these finishing chemicals are completely unable to become airborne and thus inhaled?
Second, do you or any of your readers know if the Lumber Liquidators cork tiles are made with no or low-toxicity materials? It seems that not all cork flooring is alike, and this does seem quite inexpensive ($.99/sq. ft.) for cork (since it usually is in the $8-$10 range or more). Has anyone used this particular cork flooring from Lumber Liquidators?
Third, has anyone here used the "utility" unfinished wood flooring from Lumber Liquidators, also at $.99/sq. ft.? Can this flooring be used in any room? What about leaving it unfinished?
Fourth, would the yellow woodworker's glue found at most hardware stores work for putting down wood or cork tiles?
Thank you so much, Debra! POSTED BY MIN :: VIRGINIA USA :: 10:03 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
1. I don't know about the aluminum oxide finish on the cork tiles. "Baked-on" means that the liquid finish has been exposed to heat, which volatilizes the gaseous part of the finish, so it doesn't then outgas over time in your home. Whether or not particles of any finish becomes airborne as dust as the result of friction, I don't know. If it does, it would become an irritating particulate polltant, not a toxic gaseous pollutant. I don't think that aluminum oxide or the baked-on acrylic finish would be any more prone to this than any other floor finish.
2. Haven't checked out the Lumber Liquidators cork tiles. Has anyone?
3. Haven't checked out the "utility" unfinished wood flooring from Lumber Liquidators. I did look at them once as I was considering them for a house I was remodeling. They didn't seem to have an odor, but I didn't research what the finish was. My experience with prefinished wood is that once the finish is baked on, they are all pretty safe. I ultimately decided not to use it because the colors of the wood are very inconsistent and I didn't care for the way it looked on the floor, not because of toxicity reasons. I prefer the look of the oak parquet for the same price at Lowe's. Does anyone have any experience with this floor?
4. The yellow woodworker's glue found at most hardware stores can be use for putting down wood or cork tiles. The reason I use Titebond II rather than regular woodworking glue is that it is more resistant to water. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
March 12, 2007floor underlaymentQUESTION: Have you had any experience with SOUND SOLUTIONS floor underlayment? We are considering this to go under new hardwood flooring. The packaging does not offer too much information but does say it is safe and is also a vapor barrier. We are concerned about what to put down first and feel that the traditional tar paper leaves a lot to be desired.
Having suffered from environmental illness, we appreciate the work you do frequently refer to your original book even though many things in there are outdated. THANKS! POSTED BY CONNIE :: INDIANA USA :: 5:54 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
I have no experience with any type of floor underlayment.
Readers? Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: 0 COMMENTS :: POST YOUR COMMENT
February 27, 2007Roofing materialsQUESTION: We need a new roof on our house in the Northeast. I'm researching the safest, most affordable materials, and would appreciate any info. We have cedar shakes now, but they are badly deteriorated & curly in many areas. I would like to find something that can be put over the old plywood underlay, since we don't want any new plywood added if we can avoid it. So far it sounds like sheet metal is our best bet for safety & affordability. There is a large walk-in attic space between the living space & the roof, but we might use that space someday, so probably shouldn't consider asphalt shingles. If anyone knows of alternatives that are affordable, please share! Metal shingles, standing seam metal panels, slate, and terra cotta tiles are all out of our price range, as far as I can determine. Thanks so much. Dorothy POSTED BY DB :: MASSACHUSETTS USA :: 3:54 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
My experience with roofing is that there are different types of roofs appropriate to different climates. I'm not going to make a recommendation for that reason--because I'm not an expert in your regional needs--but perhaps a reader who is will write in with an answer.
I would suggest looking for green architects or builders in your area and asking them for a recommendation. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
February 26, 2007Faux Wood PanelingQUESTION: Dear Debra,
Is it possible for faux wood paneling be "encapsulated" so that it no longer emits VOC's? Would a coat of paint (without an AFM sealant at all) take care of the emissions? Or, would there be any benefit to leaving the paneling just as it is (no paint or AFM-type sealant) and just covering it with, for example, unfinished wood beaded board? Thanks so much! POSTED BY MIN :: VIRGINIA USA :: 1:27 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
It would be possible to encapsulate faux wood paneling so it doesn't emit VOCs by using the proper AFM product, designed for this purpose. You'll have to check with them as to the right product.
The AFM sealant is specially formulated to have the molecules very tightly bonded together so that the tiny gas molecules cannot go through. Paint will reduce some emissions, but it is not designed to be a sealant.
Simply putting more wood on top would not completely encapsulate it either, as wood is porous. Though the outgassing would be slowed, the gasses can penetrate any porous material.
If you want to cover it with another piece of wood, you could place a barrier between that would stop the outgassing, such as aluminum foil. However, there are electromagnetic disadvantages to doing this.
Can you simply remove the paneling and then finish the wall in whatever way you want? Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
Soundproofing MaterialsQUESTION: Hi again, Debra! We did have another question as well:
Do you or any of your readers know of soundproofing materials for walls that would be safe for the chemically-sensitive? If so, where can these materials be purchased? POSTED BY MIN :: VIRGINIA USA :: 1:21 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
Remember, there is a search box for this blog at SEARCH box. Type in "soundproofing" and you'll get Nontoxic Soundproofing.
I would love any further ideas you all have on this subject. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
Cedar DockQUESTION: Hi Debra,
We love your site; thank you for this wonderful reference.
Our family needs to make a decision on a new dock. I prefer cedar for many reasons but worry about health and environmental issues with what to treat/weather proof it with AND if we can get wood that is not chemically treated in the first place.
Does anyone out there know of any green marine suppliers?
Thank you!! POSTED BY KIM :: ILLINOIS USA :: 1:17 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
There are some water-based DECK finishes that I gave in Q&A: Water-based Deck Finish, but I don't know if these would stand up to the constant water exposure of a dock. You might contact these manufacturers and see what they suggest.
Readers, does anyone have any experience with this? Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
February 12, 2007Lead in BathtubsQUESTION: We recently purchased an older home (built in the 1940's) The bathtub seems to be enclosed by a "liner". It looks/feels like some type of plastic. Since the original tub probably carries lead, does this "liner" make it safe?? How can we tell??
Thanks so much.
Gayle POSTED BY GAYLE :: MICHIGAN USA :: 10:25 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
A number of websites that sell bathtub liners say that such a liner will encapsulate the lead that may be leaching from your bathtub (more than half of all porcelain bathtubs made before 1974 leach lead, which can be absorbed through your skin when you take a bath).
Since you already have an existing liner, it may be made from either PVC vinyl or acrylic. PVC being the more toxic of the two.
You can tell for sure if lead is coming through the liner (or if you need to be concerned about lead in your bathtub) by using a lead test kit, such as Lead Check.
If you need to encapsulate the lead in your bathtub, look into refinishing your tub as it will encapsulate lead as well. Both liners and refinishing are pretty toxic to install. I think refinishing would be less toxic after installation. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: 0 COMMENTS :: POST YOUR COMMENT
December 11, 2006toxic windowsQUESTION: We are having a difficult time finding safe windows for our house. We put new windows in my sons bedroom and we are no longer able to go near that room. I called Jeldwin and asked for the material saftey sheet and sure enough they were vaccum sealed to the core with insecticide fungicide and 4 proprietary solvents.Our temporary Solution is sealing the window with aluminum foil.This leaves the room very dark and still with aslight odor although with an air filter the room it is habitable for short periods of time. We need to find windows that do not contain chemicals or materials that outgas and make us sick. POSTED BY BAF :: NORTH CAROLINA USA :: 1:15 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
Jeld-Wen DOES make wood windows with a solvent-free sealant, but not all their products have this sealant. It's called AuraLast.
I did a research project in March 2005 about finishes on wood windows and this was the only brand I could find at the time that didn't have toxic chemicals in the finish. {For more see ABOUT: Wood Preservatives on Windows
Readers, please let us know about windows you have used sucessfully. I personally haven't purchased new windows--I always buy salvage windows.
And let this be a reminder to ask for and read the MSDS before you buy. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
November 27, 2006Forest Stewardship Council-Certified FenceQUESTION: I live in the Miami area and am trying to locate a place where I can buy a shadow-box or similar style fence for my yard that is constructed of sustainably harvested wood and/or certified by the Forest Stewardship Council. Although Home Depot has a corporate policy to support this concept, no one in the Home Depot stores knows anything about it. I have also called a local lumber company but they don't offer this type of fence material. I'm willing to pay more for a product that I KNOW is made from sustainably harvested wood, but have become frustrated trying to locate a company that sells it. Can anyone help? Thank you very much. POSTED BY CINDY DWYER :: FLORIDA USA :: 3:03 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
The Forest Stewardship Council website has a page to help consumers locate FSC-certified products, but they only list manufacturers and say you have to ask your local retailers yourself.
So, readers, how are you finding FSC-certified products in your local areas? Are you having any success finding them? Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
November 07, 2006Green Building ResourcesQUESTION: Hello Debra,
Love your website.
We are about to start building a home, can you recommend a book or resource to try and build it as ‘green friendly’ or non-toxic as possible?
Thanks.
POSTED BY D. W. :: MARYLAND USA :: 2:35 AM CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
floor underlaymentQUESTION: Is there any type of floor underlayment for wood or cork floors that is low or non-toxic? I have looked at cork underlayment, but it is expensive. Did you use any type of underlayment with your wood floors Debra? Thanks! POSTED BY LEAH :: MICHIGAN USA :: 1:58 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
For those who are not familiar with "underlayment," it is a material placed under flooring, primarily for sound control and to act as a thermal insulation barrier. I haven't used it under any of the wood floors I have laid.
Readers, any suggestions? Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
October 28, 2006Crawlspace and MoldQUESTION: I have been reading your information on mold and the remediation you have done to your home.
We purchased our first house two years ago and it has been a nightmare. Many of the problems we are having are a result of a very damp and narrow crawl space. When we first moved in, we had special vents installed and put down a plastic vapor barrier. We still have very high humidity in our home which has ruined our flooring and our 5 year old roof.
The leaking roof ruined our walls and ceilings before we caught it. I have seen small amounts of mold in many different areas of our house. We are having the roof redone and the flooring replaced. There is no way we can afford mold remediation, unless we do it ourselves.
But our biggest problem is resolving our crawlspace issue. We have looked into a company that uses something called "clean space" technology. The idea is that completely sealing the crawl space will eliminate the moisture.
I have been researching for hours and the studies seem pretty convicing, but I wonder what we would be sealing in. Chemicals? Bacteria? Radon? I am also concerned that drying up the mold and disturbing the crawl space will bring even more pollution into our home (our duct work is in the crawl space).
Does anyone out there have any experience with this? We live in MI if this helps at all. POSTED BY LEAH :: MICHIGAN USA :: 1:05 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
Would appreciate responses from others about this. I've read the materials, but I think this needs some comments from people who understand moisture control issues better than I and who have experience with this process.
I have a couple of concerns about Clean Space technology. One is that I don't know the toxicity of the products they are using to control the mold. Their primary concern seems to be to control the mold--no mention is made of doing so in a nontoxic way. My other concern is that I'm not sure that covering the entire crawlspace with plastic is the best way to handle a moldy crawlspace. I'm sure there are other solutions. Readers? Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
October 27, 2006Baking Out Toxic Flooring AdhesiveQUESTION: Dear Debra,
Thanks to you and AFM for your response to our question regarding the offgassing of a lift chair. We have ordered the chair and will be spraying it with AFM SafeCoat Lock Out.
Our next question regards new subflooring that was just put down. We used AdvanTech subflooring per some information we found here and on the Green Guide. However, the contractor used DAP SubFloor & Deck adhesive and OSI Subfloor Adhesive (we didn't realize adhesive would be needed at all, otherwise we would have provided a low-VOC product for the contractor to use).
The toxic smell throughout the house is extremely strong. We are familiar with the "bake out" procedure you have outlined here. Our question, though, is when to do the bake out. We are going to have parquet wood squares installed and other work done, but should we bake out the house before the flooring is put down over the subfloor--or after all the work is completed?
Of course, we are approving every product the contractor uses after this to make sure only zero or low-VOC products are used. This is quite a job, since most contractors just really are not familiar with "no or low-toxicity" building products.
Thank you for the wealth of information you provide, Debra!
~Min POSTED BY MIN :: VIRGINIA USA :: 11:30 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
I had a similar problem once. Same thing. I was having a subfloor laid and didn't know they glue it to the crossbeams so it doesn't squeak.
My recommendation would be to bake out the subfloor adhesive now, and then bake again if you need to after the flooring is installed. Without the flooring, their will be fewer layers for the heat to penetrate.
[Bakeout instructions are on page 395 of my book Home Safe Home] Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
October 10, 2006Particle/Press Board: Will it fully out gas and become safe?QUESTION: hi,
we're remodeling my house, and my husband put some "sound board" on the studs under the dry wall to help with sound reduction. this "sound board" smells HORRIFFIC! it seems very similar to particle/press board. we're hoping that placing the dry wall over it, would essentially seal it, so the smell/toxicity cannot come out. however, not sure if that theory will work. or, are considering getting rid of the sound board all together.
if, in fact, this sound board is similar in composition to press board/particle board....do these types of materials EVENTUALLY FULLY OUTGAS? or is this something that does not, and needs to be 'sealed' with some sort of sealant?
knowing the answer to that question, would help us to determine how to proceed with this project.
and real quick, on the topic of press board: if i have a press board dresser from ikea...will this eventually outgas? (I've had these drawers for about 3-4 years..and my it still stinks!) my clothes left in it, wreak of the formaldehyde (ick!). since i wear primarily 100% cotton, are my natural fabrics absorbing the formaldehyde from the drawers??!! :O
would appreciate your thoughts..
thank you.
wt POSTED BY WT :: CALIFORNIA USA :: 4:56 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
First, "particleboard" and "pressboard" are two different things.
Particleboard is made of wood shavings held together with a formaldehyde-based resin that outgasses. You can see the wood shavings throughout the board on both the flat side and the cut side and it has an odor--strong when new.
Pressboard is made from smaller wood fibers that are held together by a process using pressure and steam. It is a thin, brown board, with one smooth side and one textured side. It comes in a solid sheet and perforated with holes to make "peg board". Pressboard is completely odor-free and I consider it to be a nontoxic product.
It sounds like what you have installed is particleboard, or a similar product.
Formaldehyde offgasses from particleboard until there is no more formaldehyde to offgas. It is very intense when the particleboard is new and decreases over time. I read that the half life of formaldehyde in particleboard is three to six years, but can still contribute to indoor air pollution 12 to 24 years after installation (Spectrum--Newsletter of the Society Promoting Environmental Conservation, Vol 26, No. 1). This seems reasonable to me. How long any given installation takes to full outgas depends on the conditions. More heat will make it outgas faster.
There is a product which can be applied to particleboard to block fumes, made by AFM Enterprises. I used this product many years ago with success, when I purchased a table that I thought was solid wood, which actually contained one piece of particleboard about 1' x 3' one inch thick. I applied the vapor barrier finish and was able to use the table with no problem.
However, I'm not sure I would recommend this product for large amounts of particleboard, such as a subfloor or wall of cabinets. The particleboard still outgasses and the fumes have nowhere to go except to back up behind the finish. I would like to hear from anyone who has experience with using this product in this way.
There are particleboards now that are formaldehyde-free and also boards made with agricultural wastes (such as wheat straw) that have binders of low toxicity. One of these might be a better choice than what you are using. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
making my own wool insulationQUESTION: I'm wondering if you know how to make my own wool insulation? I have access to a lot of free wool and a small living structure to insulate. I know the basics of processing wool but don't know how to make the actual insulation batts.
POSTED BY JESSICA :: SEATTLE BEE WORKS :: WWW.SEATTLEBEEWORKS.COM :: WASHINGTON USA :: 4:24 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
When I insulated my kitchen in California with wool, I just got some wool and stuffed it in the wall between the studs. I didn't make batts. It worked fine.
Anyone else have experience with this? Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
cork flooringQUESTION: What can you tell me about cork flooring? Is it all safe? We are looking at getting prefinished cork. I'm not sure if this is covered in your book. I just purchased it a few days ago and will get it soon, but we need to make a decision quickly because I just tore all of our icky carpet out of the bedroom today! Thank you. POSTED BY LEAH :: MICHIGAN USA :: 4:21 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
Cork flooring is in my book Home Safe Home on pages 384-385. I wrote:
In the 1920s, Frank Lloyd Wright chose cork as a finishing material in the natural homes he designed, and it has been popular since.
Cork tiles also are becoming popular natural floor coverings. Durable and economical, they are warm underfoot and provide noise insulation while looking rich and beautiful. In the 1920s, Frank Lloyd Wright chose cork as a finishing material in the natural homes he designed, and it has been popular since.
Cork flooring is made of the renewable bark of cork oak tree. Cork floors are especially long-lasting (50 to 75 years), anti-static, termite-proof, and resistant to penetration by stains, acids and water. Because cork neither outgasses vapors nor sheds micro-fibers, it does not contribute to indoor air quality problems. Because of it’s exceptional resiliency, a cork floor is especially appropriate in rooms such as the kitchen, bathroom, laundry and family room where family members are standing for extended periods of time.
Twelve-by-twelve cork tiles are easy to install yourself. Purchase unfinished cork tiles and install them with a low-toxic water-based adhesive, such as yellow glue, or a plant-based adhesive. Then finish with a plant-based finish. All of these products are available on the internet.
There are two disadvantages to cork. It does have an odor, as natural materials often do, and it requires waxing about once a month with a natural wax for maintenance. The odor will dissipate over time, so if you are willing to wax, this might be a good choice.
You mentioned that you are looking at getting prefinished cork. My only caution would be to be careful about what it is finished with. And, I would add that my experience with plant-based adhesives and finishes is that even though they are renewable and biodegradable, they do have a fairly strong odor of their own (albeit natural) which may not be suitable for some sensitive people.
Would appreciate any comments from people who have first-hand experience with cork floors. Readers? Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
September 21, 2006Choosing Between Natural InsulationsQUESTION: I need to insulate my attic--drafty old home with zero insulation. Can only afford to do attic. Choosing between Ultratouch Cotton or Biobased Vegetable.
I am concerned about Ultratouch because someone told me that it has boric acid in it to make it flame retardant and that can be bothersome and I am concerned that Biobased because I read it is a two-part soybean based polyurethane. (Yikes that sounds smelly!)
Please advise if possible, POSTED BY HEIDI :: CALIFORNIA USA :: 5:32 AM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
I don't have personal experience with these products. Can someone answer who does?
Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
September 18, 2006Stabilized Cellulose InsulationQUESTION: Hi there,
A friend recently contacted me and told me she had purchased stabilized cellulose insulation for her (existing) Florida home and has seen a tremendous difference in her electric bill since. The websites I have looked at claim it is a totally natural, safe material, but don't give much concrete information beyond that. I was wondering if you or any readers had any experience with it's safety as compared to fiberglass insulation.
Thanks in advance for any information.
POSTED BY NAOMI :: FLORIDA USA :: 4:37 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
I'd like to know this too, as I live in Florida and could sure use a break on my air conditioning bill. Readers...?
Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
September 15, 2006Latex Foam SealantQUESTION: I am a project management consultant, and have been using "Latex Foam Sealants" for specific applications for the past 2 years, for its many advantages over standard foam products.
However, my current client has expressed a concern over the product after it has occured and wishes to know if there is any health/environmental issue of the product;
a) after it has cured. ie. will it give off any harmful gases/odors?.
b) Is there any issue next to hot water heating pipes?
c) will it break down over time? (this installation is NOT exposed to UV)
Products are
DAPtex® Latex Insulating Foam Sealant
Website http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=11
and
Touch-n-foam
http://www.touch-n-foam.com/foamlatex.htm
Both appear and behave very similar (I would almost hazard a guess made in the same factory).
POSTED BY ERIC KAY :: BRITISH COLUMBIA CANADA :: 8:23 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
For future reference, the way to answer your question is to look at the Material Safety Data Sheets, which were on the websites for both of these products.
The MSDS for the DAPtex says it contains
Isopropyl alcohol
Ethylene glycol
Dimethyl ether
Propane
Butane
Vinyl acetate
Alphatic amines
Under Hazards Identification it says "Vapors harmful if inhaled,"This product contains ethylene glycol," and under Chronic Hazards it says "This product cotains vinyl acetate which is classified as a class 2B carcinogen by IARC."
The MSDS goes on to say that vinyl acetate "was found to cause cancer in the respiratory tract of laboratory animals. There is no evidence that vinyl acetate causes cancer in humans."
Regarding ethylene glycol, it says "Studies have shown that repeated inhalation of ethylene glycol has produced adverse cardiovascular changes in laboratory animals. Ethylene glycol may cause kidney and liver damage upon prolonged and repeated overexpsoures. Ethylene glycol has been shown to cause birth defects in laboratory animals.
Then it says, "NOTICE: Reports have associated repeated and prolonged occupation overexposure to solvents with permanent brain and nervous system damage...Repeated or prolonged exposure may cause respiratory system damage."
I would say that if these warnings appear in the MSDS, they are legiminate concerns.
What I don't know is this, and you should contact the manufacturer and ask this question. There is a different in many products between the chemical exposure to the product in the container as you are applying it and once it is cured. You should be concerned about your exposure during application. Your client needs to know what is the exposure while you are applying it and after it is cured.
The MSDS for Touch-n-foam says it contains these hazardous ingredients:
Formaldehyde
Dimethyl ether
Propane
Isobutane
So it's not the same formula.
Of the two, I would say that the Touch-n-foam is much safer. Though formaldehyde is a hazardous chemical, it is MUCH safer than ethylene glycol and vinyl acetate. If you need to use these products, I'd suggest using the Touch-n-foam.
To completely answer your client's questions, I would contact the manufacturer, as they are more familiar with their product than I am. The formaldehyde may volatilize quickly or it may "time-release" as in particleboard. They would know.
Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: 0 COMMENTS :: POST YOUR COMMENT
September 05, 2006Safe Caulk and Preprimed WoodQUESTION: 1) I’m needing to do some caulking on the outside of my house, but near my bedroom window so I want to use a safe one. You mention, in Home Safe Home, there is a safe brand. Could you disclose that to me? I’d appreciate it.
2) The contractor wants to use a pre-primed wood instead of priming the wood and then painting. My fear would that this pre-primed wood will be treated beforehand. Have you had experience with something like this?
I hope to hear from you soon. It’s always scary to do something to my house for fear of reacting to whatever it is. Thanks.
POSTED BY S. J. :: CALIFORNIA USA :: 1:35 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
The brand I was referring to in my book was DAP, which at the time did not list hazardous chemicals on their MSDS sheet for DAP Acrylic Latex Caulk, DAP Acrylic Latex Caulk with Silicone, or DAP Dow Corning 100% Silicone Sealant. However, since (researched in 2003--this is part of the problem when publishers take a year to get a book in print) then they have apparenetly changed their formulas and now their MSDS lists chemicals like formaldehyde and ethylene glycol. So I no longer recommend them.
Check the search results for caulk on my on-site search engine. A few of the natural building websites have caulk. See what they recommend.
About the pre-primed wood, I would think that wood that is pre-primed is only wood and primer. And pre-primed woood would be less toxic than priming wood on-site because there would be more time to allow the primer to dry before you are exposed to it. Also, primer is often pretty toxic--moreso than paint--so I think it would be better for you to not be around primer if you can arrange that.
The only way to know for sure what else might be on the wood is to find out the specific manufacturer and contact them.
Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
June 13, 2006Nontoxic SpackleQUESTION: I need non-toxic spackling for sealing cracks in my drywalls. Help! POSTED BY J. W. :: NEW JERSEY USA :: 12:00 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
Any dry powdered spackle that you mix with water is fine. Stay away from the premixed ones as they may contain various plastics, including acrylic and vinyl. Just a precautionary note...while the powdered spackles do not contain plastics, they are made from various mineral powders--including limestone, titanium dioxide, talc, and others--which may be inhalation hazards. When using any kind of spackle it's best to use a protective dust mask. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
May 06, 2006Safe tile grout and backerboardQUESTION: Thanks to all your tips, my wife is really feeling much better with her MCS. In fact, we're now carefully considering putting a tile floor where the carpet used to be in the bathroom adjacent to her bedroom. Using your recommendations we have found safe tile adhesives and grout sealers but we can't find anything about safe grouts. Can you recommend any products for a chemically safe grout and are there any problems to watch out for in the cement board underlayment materials? POSTED BY B. C. :: ALABAMA USA :: DEBRA'S ANSWER:
Any grout is fine. There's a latex additive that has a bit of an odor, but it dissipates quickly as the grout dries. By the time it's ready to use, there is little or no odor. If any odor remains, it will be gone within a week or so. I've laid tile on the floor without the latex additive with no problem. It just makes the grout more flexible and less likely to crack. The standard cement board underlayment is also fine. Two brand names we have used are Hardibacker and Durock. There is also Wonderboard, which was the first product of this kind. Do NOT use "greenboard" which is ordinary sheetrock covered with a green coating . Not only does it have a strong odor, but it also falls apart when it gets wet. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
April 04, 2006Green BathtubsQUESTION: I am looking for an airjet tub that would be safe. One company [name deleted] said that their urethane tubs are the only green product around. My HVAC guy says that 100% acrylic tubs are inert. However, as far as I can see, the acrylic tubs have a fiberglass and resin shell which is where the problem mostly lies. Any info? Also, do you know how to construct a tiled bathtub where the bathtub itself is made of tile? POSTED BY C. H. :: MASSACHUSETTS USA :: DEBRA'S ANSWER:
I contacted the company that is making the claim that their urethane bathtub is "green." Here's what I found out. Acrylic-lined tubs have a shell of fiberglass. So it's fiberglass on the outside and acrylic on the inside. The toxic element in fiberglass is polyester resin. Polyester resin has a styrene carrier which outgasses VOCs. This company replaces the polyester resin in the fiberglass with urethane, which does not outgas, so there are zero VOCs. That's the green claim--that it has zero VOCs. However, the fiberglass is on the outside of the tub, which usually is completely sealed against a wall or within a tile surround. So whatever VOCs do outgas probably are not going into the room once the tub is installed. Still I am concerned about the acrylic liner being a plastic and that none of these materials are renewable or biodegradable. Certainly I would call this a less toxic tub, but I would still stay away from any plastic tubs. A standard porcelain tub would still come out ahead. My husband and I are planning to install a new bathtub, and we are looking into lining it with marble or ceramic tile, as you inquired about. I want a good-sized tub that is larger than the standard sizes. I had a friend once who had a custom-built tub lined with marble tiles and it was wonderful! This type of tub is called a "Roman tub" and it has been very difficult to find instructions for making one. Apparently they are difficult, heavy, and costly, so are not often installed. But I did find these instructions posted on an internet message board: I would remove subfloor and reinforce the joists,then rough in the plumbing. Then build the frame out of 2x4's and clad it with 3/4" plywood. I'd staple tar paper and metal lath to that and shape it with a fine concrete sand and portland mix. On top of that I would lay a membrane such as a shower pan liner. Then proceed to do a mud bed reinforced with 2"x2" 16 guage wire up to a 1 1/2" thickness.On that I'd install a waterproof membrane such as Schluter's Kerdi mat with an epoxy mortar. Then install the mosaics with Mapei's Keralastic and grout with an epoxy grout. This is similar to building a shower pan, which is what you install if you are not installing a tub. My husband found some great instructions in the article Mortar Bed Shower Floors and there are other good instructions about bathtub and shower construction and repair at leakyshower.com [NOTE: leaky tiles are a major reason bathrooms get moldy and need to be ripped out and replaced, so this is a good website to explore. My husband found that the shower pan instructions in the printed book we bought were wrong. These folks have experience and know what they are doing.] Also check local, state, and federal building codes for requirements. My suggestion at this point would be to use larger tiles to line the tub rather than smaller ones, as this would minimize the chance for leakage. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
November 15, 2005Household LubricantQUESTION: Greetings! And thank you so much for your valuable service. Any tips for a non-toxic, odor free or at least low odor lubricant for household uses such as oiling door hinges and windows? Food oils go rancid and we would like to avoid petrochemicals if possible. Looking forward to your response. Thanks. POSTED BY S. L. :: NEBRASKA USA :: DEBRA'S ANSWER:
Use jojoba oil. You can purchase it at natural food stores or online from many sources. Just type "jojoba oil" into your favorite search engine and you will find many possibilities. Many years ago I dated a man who sold air filters to people who were sensitive to chemicals. He used jojoba oil to oil the machines.
Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: 0 COMMENTS :: POST YOUR COMMENT
September 06, 2005Water-based Deck FinishQUESTION: What do you recommend for a water-based deck finish?
POSTED BY P. S. :: CALIFORNIA USA :: DEBRA'S ANSWER:
There are two types of deck finish: oil-based, which penetrates the wood, and water-based, which lies on top. This article from This Old House explains the difference and why you might want to choose one over the other based on performance. Oil-based finishes are more toxic to apply, so I don't recommend them. In searching for a water-based finish, I found that not all are alike. Water-based finishes do contain fewer volatile organic chemicals VOC, but some still contain glycol, a fairly toxic solvent. Fortuantely I was able to find two water-based acrylic wood finishes with NO hazardous ingredients listed on the Material Safety Data Sheet MSDS. Wolman Extreme Acrylic Wood Finish can be purchased in retail stores wherever Wolman products are sold. AFM Safecoat DynoSeal needs to be ordered online. I haven't used either of these products, but they are the best I could find based on their ingredient data. If anyone has any personal experience using these products, send me an email and I will post your comments. * * * A reader told me about a soy-based deck finish. SoyGuard® Premium Water Repellant & Wood Sealer is mostly natural, but contains 19% recycled polystyrene. SoySeal Wood Sealer & Waterproofer is a natural soy based sealer for all wood, decks and docks. It provides a 24-month seal that spreads water and doesn't bead. It contains no V.O.C's, is non-toxic, non-flammable, and biodegradable. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
June 28, 2005Safety of ACQ Pressure-Treated WoodQUESTION: I live in Orford Qc where there is a conservation national parc, a very delicate ecosystem. Unfortunately , it is a very beautiful mountain also and a promotor is now on is way of exchanging the land for another to built around 2000 condos and new golf courses. The builders have already constructed many sidewalks and belvedere in the parc with ACQ wood they say, to me it smells like CCA wood. Suppose for the moment it is ACQ, is it safe for a prolong exposition to wild life and for the drinking water of the community?
I am concerned and I asked the promotor during the BAPE hearings yesterday. He said that it is safe and the park authorities also. I am not conviced, since he is using vinyl a lot in other constructions.
Do you have any comments on the safety of ACQ?
POSTED BY M S-M :: QUEBEC CANADA :: DEBRA'S ANSWER:
ACQ stands for Alkaline Copper Quat. The main active ingredient is copper, which was the main active ingredient in CCA chromated copper arsenate pressure treatment, which was phased out in 2003. Though the copper remains the same, the other ingredients in ACQ are much less toxic than the chromium and arsenic that were used in CCA. According to manufacturers' literature on ACQ, quat acts as a co-biocide, providing additional protection from fungi and insect attack that copper alone would not control. Quats are commonly used in household disinfectants and cleaners, and in swimming pools and spas. Quats are biodegradable in soil. Recently my husband and I were faced with a decision as to whether or not we would use ACQ treated wood for posts to hold a garden gate. At both Lowe's and Home Depot, free information on ACQ treated wood was obviously displayed. These are interesting documents. On the one hand they say wear a dust mask when cutting, wear gloves when handling, wash exposed areas thoroughly after handling, wash work clothes separately from other household clothing, do not use where it may come into direct or indirect contact with drinking water or where the preservative ma become a component of food, animal feed, or beehives, and do not use for mulch. On the other hand, use recommendations include hand rails, fence posts and decking, and one brand was the winner of the 2002 EPA Presidential Green Chemistry Award! We were in a situation where we needed two ten-foot 4x4 posts, which are not sold at either Home Depot or Lowe's. Here in Florida, the choices were ACQ and cedar. We went to lumberyards and started off saying "We don't want ACQ because it's toxic" and lumberyard men would look at us blankly and say "No, it's not." We would show them the manufacturers' flyers from Home Depot and they had never seen them before. They were handling and cutting these boards and posts all day long with no precautions and had no concerns whatsoever. Everywhere we went it was the same. Coming from California, where we would use redwood instead of CCA treated wood, we thought we could just use cedar instead. But we found out that today, cedar is cut too young to have developed the insect-resistance of a mature tree. We were told that if we used cedar, here in humid Florida, the wood would be rotted in three months. The only wood you can put in the ground here and have it last at all is pressure-treated. We ended up going with the ACQ posts and we'll be painting them with a water-based exterior latex paint, both to protect the wood, and so we and our guests will not have to touch the ACQ treatment directly when we touch the gate posts. It was the practical choice here. After working with the ACQ wood, neither my husband nor I suffered any ill effects. We kept commenting to each other that this didn't feel like a toxic material. Then we had to make another choice. Our investment house needed a new front porch. The previous porch had been removed due to termite damage. Again ACQ wood was our best choice, the only other alternative being a recycled plastic/woodchip board that costs twice as much. And again, as we built the porch, we suffered no ill effects. Will ACQ affect the environment? I don't know. The posts are on the other side of the house from where we grow organic food. When I look at the actual toxicity of the ingredients, they are not bad--not like CCA. When I read the warnings from the manufacturers, I wonder if they were written by cautious attorneys. Personally, I used them because they were the only option I had available. If there were other woods to choose from that would stand up to the Florida conditions, I would have used something else. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
Anything I should do before I move into my brand new home?QUESTION: Our newly constructed home is almost done! Is there anything I should do before I move my family in beyond a thorough natural cleaning? POSTED BY S.W. :: WASHINGTON USA :: DEBRA'S ANSWER:
I'm assuming you used only nontoxic, natural, and otherwise environmentally-friendly materials, but even so, these may emit residual odors and vapors until they are completely cured.
To speed up the curing process, you can do what is commonly called a "bake-out". In, my experience, it has been a cure-all for many toxic homes, as it bakes off the volatile gasses that are present in materials and finishes and cures the materials into an inert form.
The procedure I recommend in my book Home Safe Home is this: - Close all the doors and windows.
- Remove people, pets and plants.
- Turn up the central heat as far as it will go or use space heaters.
- At the end of each twenty-four hour period, open the doors and windows and air your home out completely. Use a fan if necessary.
- Sniff around to check for odors. Determine if they are gone, or if you need another day of baking.
Baking can take from one to five days. I've never needed to do it longer than five days. One client told me that she had previously baked her house, and got very sick afterwards. But as I listened to her story, I discovered that she hadn't aired it out. Of course she got sick. After baking, all the toxic substances that were in the materials were then in the air of her home. Baking out, according to the instructions I've given, has been, in my experience, a safe and effective procedure. I have been using and recommending this process for over twenty years with no personal ill effects that I could identify, and no complaints from my clients when done as directed. I'd recommend a good bake-out as well as a good cleaning before moving in. Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
October 19, 2004Need Help With Kitchen Reno!QUESTION: I find myself overwhelmed with choices for an eco kitchen reno. It seems that either solid wood cabinetry or cabinet boxes made of strawboard with solid wood
fronts are the only eco options. I've tried re-covering used cabinets from the paper, but they are always in really bad shape.
Further, are granite or soapstone the best environmental options for countertops, and doesn't it depend on the granite's source?
My kitchen is falling apart and I'm afraid to take one step forward!
Thanks for any help you can offer, and I really love your newsletter.
POSTED BY V. L. :: BRITISH COLUMBIA CANADA :: 3:05 PM DEBRA'S ANSWER:
There ARE are lot of choices for eco kitchens, more even than you list.
Green Home Guide has a great article that outlines all the possibilities for countertops, and gives some resources. The best environmental option isn't necessarily granite or soapstone--I once redid my entire kitchen with salvage gray marble slabs at $5 a square foot. Eco-options for countertops include tiles made from various recycled materials, too.
Both your choices for cabinetry sound fine. There are more options--such as metal cabinets, but wood is much more aesthetic. Consider having cabinets custom-built. I know that sounds expensive, but I had a local cabinetmaker build all the cabinets in my California kitchen with solid wood and my choice of finish, and the total cost installed was less than if I had purchased particleboard cabinets from Home Depot. So check around.
There are no single products that are "the best" choice for everyone. In a personal one-on-one phone consultation, I can help you choose the kitchen reno products that are right for you.
Debra :-) CATEGORY — BUILDING :: :: POST YOUR COMMENT
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