Debra Lynn Dadd

Fabric Dyes

QUESTION:

Dear Debra,

Just found this website with information about fabric dyes: http://terressentials.com/dplanet.html

Since I'm chemically sensitive, I found it interesting to read. Could you please clarify the subject of textile dyes - petrochemical, low-impact, Foxfibre, natural, organic, vegetable, etc.? It would be difficult to find enough all-organic clothing and most are quite expensive.

POSTED BY SVE :: WASHINGTON USA :: 11/19/2006 6:15 PM


DEBRA'S ANSWER:

First let me say that I read the article at this link and I agree with most of what she is saying. It would be great to live in a world as pure as Diane would like. I certainly do my best to find the purest fibers available and put them on Debra's List. I would love it if everyone could wear clothing made from fibers grown organically and dyed with beautiful natural dyes.

I admire and appreciate Diane's constant vigilance for the purest products available and certainly support the move in that direction, but while we are moving there, we all still need to wear clothes. Diane seems to want everyone to take a quantum leap into perfect sustainability--I'm a little more practical in acknowledging the need for transition, both on the manufacturing end and in the marketplace. And so I'm willing to look at and offer more choices.

The vast vast vast majority of dyes used on natural fiber textiles are synthetic dyes made from petrochemicals. Like any other petrochemical product, the mining of petrochemicals, their refining and waste pollute our land, air, and water with toxic chemicals, which eventually end up in our bodies. I personally don't find it toxic to my own body to wear fibers with synthetic dyes, but I know people who do react. I don't consider synthetic dyes to be high on the toxicity list for direct contact in clothing, but we do need to remember that their manufacture is causing environmental pollution, which eventually does come around to us.

Low-impact dyes are made from petrochemicals. They are not natural, but claim to have less of an impact on the environment. Why do they dye organically-grown fibers with synthetic dyes? In a way, it doesn't make sense to put these synthetic dyes on organically grown fibers after they have been so careful with the fibers. But here's the thing. Consumers want colors. And if these dyes are applied, the organic fiber clothing will sell more, thereby supporting the growth of the organic fiber industry.

Foxfibe is wonderful, wonderful, wonderful. It is cotton grown in it's various natural colors. That cotton grew in colors other than white was discovered in 1982, While trying to breed insect resistance into cotton plants, Sally Fox noticed that occasionally a cotton plant produced a green or brown cotton, just as occasionally a flock of sheep has a few black lambs. The colors deepen with age rather than fade, as dyed fabrics do. Most of the natural-colored cotton is organically grown. There is now a spectrum of greens and browns available and the colors can also be modified according to how they are washed. I have a sweater that was knitted by hand from Foxfibre and I cherish it. It is my favorite sweater--large and warm and soft. It uses brown and white cotton to make a tweed, with a plain brown collar and cuffs.

Natural and vegetable dyes are made from plants. Some plants leave a stain on fabrics, like beet juice, for example. For millenia, the only dyes were dyes from plants and also from some animals and insects. Red was from a beetle. They produce very beautiful colors. You can get naturally dyed fabrics from artisans and also many imported rugs have vegetable dyes (such as these Tibetan Rugs). But they require so much plant material to make the dye, that we probably couldn't grow enough to clothe all the people of the world today, nor would most be able to afford the cost. Also, even though the dyestuff is natural and may be organically grown, most colors require toxic mordants to fix the color to the fabric. So it isn't really nontoxic either.

Unless otherwise specified, all textiles are colored with synthetic dyes. The purest choice available today would be to choose undyed fibers in their natural colors. With a little creativity, this limited palette can be made into very interesting fabrics.

As we continue to support the more natural and organic products of all kinds with our purchases, we move the market in the direction of greater and greater availability.

Debra :-)


COMMENTS:

I have found I react to dyes on some organic clothing, and also that the dye colored my whole wash.
HT Naturals told me that pinks and aquas are the most unstable, and that the (low impact) dyes were necessary in order to sell the clothes. I have had no problems with Shirts of Bamboo products (listed on Debra's List), not even with pinks; so all sources are not alike.

I tried Organic Threads (FoxFibre & Colorganic trademarks) also from Debra's List or at least the Q&A part; and I just wish everyone knew they make color-grown organic cotton socks AND SUPPORT SOCKS! They made only 1 batch of support socks, and I bought some for a song (try pricing almost all-cotton compression support socks anywhere else for less than $10 each!) The tragedy is that they cannot make more of them because it takes so much to clean up a factory and then run a bunch of them; no-one bought them to make it worth their while. You can order what's left of them in bulk, like I did, 30 minimum I believe; or buy just a few from the retailers they list on the same site. I like the "natural" color but I am also going to try natural dyes on them because I think color has been what limited their market.

What about madder, and other dyes requiring either no mordants or low-toxic alum only?! Many dyes use toxic mordants, even copper! If we need colors it is worth trying more of the safe dyes - black walnut for blacks/browns/greys and quercitron (black oak bark) for nice yellows (and weld for yellow-greens) are free materials and permanent, with either no mordants or a little alum! I am even going to try cochineal (expensive), and some madder I am growing organically (from seeds - c2-year crop but costs only a few dollars!)

I just don't believe we should suffer with synthetic dyes or no colors. (I will attest to the beauty of indigo, yet in my case as a novice, it required too many washings to get it colorfast; and thank God for enzymes to help remove the stuff from my hands!!)

The point is that there are great companies like FoxFiber which have risked bankruptcy and have nearly been forced out of business many times, yet they offer excellent products. Or at least they still make the regular socks, in three colors, but they have trouble keeping these available if no-one buys them. Why not save your health and buy them in bulk so as to afford them!! www. organicthreads.com

*The story on their site shows how good these socks are and is very compelling.

COMMENT FROM DEBRA: I've been recommending naturally colored FoxFiber for years--ever since it was first developed...

POSTED BY FRAN :: TX USA :: 10/02/2007 9:48 AM


Hi Debra,

According to William McDonough, Micheal Braungart and the folks at Rohner Textile AG in Switzerland non toxic dyeing process are available (Climatex is the Rohner brand). In Cradle to Cradle: Remaking the way we make things McDonough & Braungart make compelling arguments for not letting the products of human technological cycles (such as metals common in dyes) contaminate the biological cycles.

In my opinion a fast and low cost way move to a sustainable culture is to harness the power of markets. If consumer demand makes Rohner prosper then others will copy them then governments will have latitude to outlaw the methods that are toxifying the earth.

Ken Huck
Ecosavvy Homes
"Make the Earth Sing"
828-350-7529

POSTED BY KEN HUCK :: NATUREPLAY PRESCHOOL :: NATUREPRESCHOOL.COM :: NORTH CAROLINA USA :: 03/30/2009 8:48 AM


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