There's a recipe that is mainly walnut oil, maybe with some besswax. (unless maybe you are allergic to tree nuts)

A table was made for me by a master finisher, but all I could tolerate was a walnut oil finish.

Anita's water clean-up polyurethane varnish, from 770/484-0722 (Atlanta, GA), but I last ordered it years ago, I don't know if this company (Sugarloaf Products) still sells it.

I am a craftsman/builder and I've used to following substances to finish wood for myself, my MCS clients, and clients who want the best, most beautiful finishes and don't mind waiting a month or so for the pieces to be done. They are also not environmentally toxic.

boiled linseed oil (100%, not diluted with anything, no mineral spirits, zip)

stand oil (not diluted, this is linseed heated to 500'F in a vacuum)

tung oil (completely non toxic once cured, use undiluted, slightly toxic to humans when wet but evaporates very slowly, fumes aren't such an issue)

--Wear gloves when applying oils and ensure adequate cross-ventilation with a fan, breathing a huge amount of oil fumes isn't so great for your lungs mechanically speaking

shellac (non toxic once dry, mixed myself from flakes, diluted with high proof alcohol (like Everclear 180-190 proof) not denatured alcohol, alcohol is a toxin but well tolerated by many people with proper cross ventilation and a respirator)


These finishes require some practice. Don't practice on your piece, practice on scraps first. And check your practice pieces every day for a few days after application-- that will teach you about the medium.

Most wood workers don't use oils uncut (undiluted) because they require patience, skill, and more time to harden. But a scant few of us do and get fabulous, super durable results. Be careful to read the label, some finishes say, "100%" but they are cut with a high percentage of mineral spirits. You may have to mail order oils or shellac flakes to get what you want. Klingspor Woodworker catalog and Highland Woodworking are two places to check.

You can also use jojoba. It's the weakest option, it only fills the pores of the wood with something so the wood resists staining. It never hardens (cures) but it also doesn't go rancid. And it's ridiculously safe to use, technically you can eat the stuff.