Let me start by saying that this is, as you've already discovered, not a quick fix type of problem. My suggestions are first to understand the basic issues around moisture, mold, and crawlspaces.

The folks at Building Science Corporation know this stuff as well as anyone, if you don't mind doing some reading: http://www.buildingscience.com/resources/mold/default.htm

In order to control mold, you need to control moisture and temperature. The only true way to do this is to move your house to Arizona, or condition your crawlspace (yes, this means insulate, seal, and heat / cool).

DON'T just seal it up with plastic, this will accelerate your problems.

DON'T just vent it, or it will go through all the humidity and temerature swings of the outdoors, which tends to be a great environment for growing things spontaneously.

Good luck!

You must deal with the source of the moisture first. Take a good look at your site and how rainwater is managed. The site should ideally slope away from the house on all sides, and your guttering should take water well away from the house. It's shocking how often homes have moisture problems caused by improper guttering. I've just sorted this out on a house I bought last month. It's cheap and easy and if this is all or part of your problem, you should see reduced moisture in your crawlspace very quickly.

If repairing the roof and sorting out drainage removes the main source of moisture then sealing your crawlspace can be wise. It should also save you money on energy. But expect to pay upwards of 8,000 dollars for a 1200 square foot footprint. For an excellent reference on the subject of crawlspaces see http://www.crawlspaces.org/. You'll see that the science of building is moving on and that ventillated crawlspaces were generally a big mistake.

The whole idea is to minimize UNdesigned air leaks so you can manage ventilation better with Designed 'leaks'. So I wouldn't worry about sealing things in. You're simply taking control of the air movements in your home.

Having said that, it would be wise and fairly cheap to test for radon anyhow. Mitigating it isn't cheap but would need to be integrated into the sealed crawlspace if you choose to go that route.

You might have your ducts checked and possibly replaced if there is moisture or particularly fungus in them. I had to replace a couple in my crawlspace.

Then you might want to install a top notch air purification system in your ducts. I've installed an EcoQuest ductworx system which kills virus, bacterial and fungus in the ducts and helps enormously.

Hello, this is Mary Cordaro, Environmental Consultant. Debra asked me to comment on this question.

In general, the materials that Clean Space includes are fine, and as long as the source of the moisture is completlely eliminated, this is a good step in many cases. I have recommended Clean Space a few times to my clients.

However, anyone who is severly chemically sensitive needs to spec a non toxic silicon joint sealant/caulk, which is my only real caveat, regarding materials.

That said, Clean Space is a franchise. It can be put in correctly, with all the precautions to eliminate contamination of the living envelope during instalation, or, if you're unlucky enough to hire a company with little knowledge about pressure, air flow, filtering and particulates, you'll pay less and possibly end up with serious migration of pollutants and resulting contamination indoors.

My experience is that if you can afford it, do it, but do it right. If your budget is too tight for mold abatement, you probably can't afford the Clean Space system, as installed correctly by a more educated, skilled company. Although I don't know all the issues for this particular sitation, in general, it sounds like it's out of your ballpark unless you take too many chances.

Put the money instead into a highly experienced mold inspector with building science training. Or, work with that person by phone to get some general guidance. You have a potentially complicated problem, and although it's tempting to try to figure it out yourself, you might end up spending more in the long run, or suffer from illness later. Be very careful, please, if you are not a qualified expert dealing with mold. For referrals, contact: http://iaqa.org/

Be sure the mold expert is trained in building science as well as mold, that mold inspection is their primary business, that they do not also provide abatement, and that they have at least 5 years of experience with mold investigations, preferably more.

Dear Friends:

I am an inventor and researcher in the field of organic agriculture, soil-based microorganisms, and water structure.

Last year I volunteered to help out the Hurricane Katrina victims by teaching them non-toxic methods to handle mold. The following are the instructions for handling mold toxicity as well as handling the legal requirements when inspections are required.

The standard recommendation of using bleach to kill and scrub mold off of the walls and tiles in the kitchen and bathrooms is definitely the WRONG solution. If you use bleach, sure it will immediately kill the present mold, however it will also immediately start to attract Mother Nature’s toxic chemical remover – more MOLD!

Even the EPA is no longer recommending bleach for mold removal in flooded areas as lawsuits are mounting. What has occurred is that after the bleach is used and the inspectors check the surface, it passes with flying colors and the contractors nail up the sheet rock. Within 14 days the mold starts to grow all over again and people start to get sick again. When they smash the brand new sheet rock they find completely blackened molded surfaces between the walls. This is why you do NOT use bleach.


To handle odors, organic waste, solvents, and oil contamination the following will be the simplest instructions. For more complex situations we have many other methods:

 CM (cultured molasses), EM (Effective Microorganisms), and many other brands of the same material. This is a dark brown solution. So when it is diluted it will still be slightly yellow tan color in the water.
 CM is a totally safe soil-based microorganism mixture. We use it to make compost, fertilize vegetables and hundreds of other applications on farms. It can also be use to clean up rivers, lakes, oceans and the Ecosystem.

"One should wear high quality solvent base rebreathers (not dust masks!) and a full suit to protect oneself from mold spores." CM is very safe but NOT the Mold spores!

CM is totally safe to use without any protection at all, but if you enter High Mold Spores area you should protect yourself.

Some basic information having to do with certified mold free tests:
1. In order to sell a house you will need a Mold Free Certification.
2. Mold testing procedure: They take outside and interior air samples, and compare them. If the samples turn out to be the same or the interior is lower the building is deemed mold free.
3. However if there is visible mold still present, they will then take a piece of sticky tape and take a sample.
4. In order to ensure that the homeowner gets a mold free certification, our recommendations are as follows.
5. Initial entry to a room full of sofas, files and household goods. One should use a paint sprayer and finely mist EVERYTHING in sight, from ceiling to floor, wall to wall. This will significantly drop the highly toxic mold spores, and other toxic fumes. You still should wear expensive solvent-based respirators. Men must have a clean shave so as not to have air leakage around the facemask. Mold spore toxicity is very powerful and one should apply the greatest care possible when entering such an environment.
6. Now you can remove the furniture and start removing the interior sheetrock and insulation up to the flood line. You DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE EXTERIOR WALL.
7. After the removal of the walls and insulation you now use a high pressure sprayer (1,500 psi +) with straight (EM). Spray off the visible mold from the interior side of the exterior wall, and all the studs.
8. Squeegee the excess water.
9. After the surface is FULLY dry, replace new insulation and sheet rock.
10. Unlike bleach (chlorine) the new dry surface will not attract new mold growth. Even EPA is now recommending soap and water to remove the mold and not bleach.

Mixing quantities:

1. For the heavy odor contamination (flood damage, cat & dog urine other organic materials such as gasoline) concrete floor, tile, carpet, use 4-8 oz. CM (cultured molasses) to 1 gallon of water (1:20 to 1:50 ratio mix). Spray heavily until saturated or a thin layer of water on the concrete. Let air dry. Do not mop up, just let the microbes penetrate and eat the oil, odor, organic material out. This is particularly true for the initial spraying. For the power wash use the maximum setting for the uptake of the (EM)

2. For the heavy contamination soil, WITH LIVE PLANTS. Use 1:1:500 and not stronger or you will “KILL” the plants. Use 1.5 teaspoon CM (cultured molasses) to 1.5 teaspoon (molasses or some source of sugar and minerals) (Food for the microbes) to 1 gallon of water. Spray heavily until saturated or a thin layer of water on the concrete. Let it air dry do not mop up, just let the microbes penetrate and eat the oil out.
 1:500 is roughly (¾ teaspoon to 1 quart of water, or 1.5 teaspoons to 1 gallon of non-chlorinated water.)

3. For heavy contaminated soil WITHOUT LIVE PLANTS. Use 1:1:100 RATIO. 2oz CM (cultured molasses) to 2 oz. (molasses or white sugar) (Food for the microbes) to 1 gallon of water. Spray heavily until saturated or a thin layer of water on the concrete. Let it air dry do not mop up, just let the microbes penetrate and eat the oil out.

4. For odors in the ceiling, ventilation ducts and walls, or drapes (On light colors, DO A TEST to make sure there is no browning effect) use 1oz. CM and 1 gallon of water. A fine mist, not drenching. Repeat spray as the odor returns. Do not try to remove the entire odor at one time. Fine spray repeated over several days is recommended. Note this is NOT a chemical so it takes a little time to do its job!

5. After you have mixed the solution you should completely use it all. The left over solution may be used on the following day. The solution should definitely not be kept for more than 48 hours. The solution will spoil. If you have about a gallon left, thin it down with approximately five gallons of water and water the plants. If you have a small amount left, add water until it is a clear brown color and use that to water your plants, or you can pour the mixture down the toilet, thus cleaning your septic lines.

6. After a couple of days please call me and tell me your progress. There are many other solutions. Let’s see if the simplest one works.

Disclaimer:
This information is given out freely as a public service for educational purposes only. Natural Plus Plus does not assume any liability for any errors due to misapplication or any other factors or use. User assumes full responsibility for anything that occurs as a result of using any of the microorganism technologies.

"One should wear high quality solvent base rebreathers and a full suit to protect oneself from mold spores."
EM is totally safe to use without any protection at all, but if you enter High Mold Spores area you should protect yourself.



As an inventor, researcher, and agricultural consultant, I am here to help. If you or someone you know have unfortunately worked in heavy mold contaminated areas and are suffering from mold toxicity, it usually starts with a dry cough, nasal infection follows and sometimes it will migrate into the ear or other parts of the body. There are good methods to handle such problems. Please feel to call me at 727-447-2344 EST 10:00am to 5:00pm.

Sincerely,

Winston Kao

I am looking to expand my business to include crawlspace moiture control. I would really like to have some training for this but I have yet to find a training course. Is this part of the mold remedation class that comes with mold training or do you know of a place that offers this specific training?

This is a big problem having moisture in your crawlspace. First you need to address excessive water, sump pump drain-tile etc. Then you can seal up area with min. 10 mil vapor barrier. We use Vapor Bright or Clean Space. Get estimates and check with other clients..